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You can download the mod by using the Steam Workshop Downloader, or from Civfanatics. To install, just extract the contents of the zip/civ5mod file into a folder in your Civ V mods directory. On Windows, it's usually located at Documents\My Games\Sid Meier's Civilization 5\MODS
Regarding documentation for modding, you're correct that there really is no up-to-date (at least to my knowledge), concise tutorial out there. That said, Kael's guide on Civfanatics while outdated is still full of extremely useful info for new modders and I recommend giving it a read. In terms of figuring out things like interesting UAs, custom dialogue, music, etc. your best bet is to dissect other people's mods and see how they tick. That's what I did when I was starting out.
I suggest you start with something small and simple: it doesn't have to publishable, just try and focus on getting the fundamentals down. If you run into trouble, remember the Civfanatics community is chock-full of resources and people who have had the same problems as you, and is there to help.
That's probably the best I can do in the form of a Steam Community comment, but hope it helps!
But seriously, this is great. I love civilizations that reward exploration. Also love civs that actually play music when I play with them in hotseat because they added more than the peace and war themes.
If I were to mod civilizations, I would like to create stuff like this, with lots of lines of dialogue, a cool UA, nice music and etc., but I can never find a tutorial up to date that covers all of that.