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You need at least 2 fuel rods in the reactor to get full reactor output. The AI likes to remove them.
If the Mk2's wiring baffles you, Greywolf's is really gonna hurt your brain haha ;)
Already fixed a few issues I discovered during actual game testing (rather than in the editor). Once I get these last few issues worked out it will be up on the workshop.
- Fully automated and regulated electrical system, with manual override.
- Fully automated battery charging system, with manual override.
- Semi-automated reactor, with auto shutdown if alarm on for more than 8 seconds (gives the auto control time to regulate).
- Silent running with blue lighting, reactor locked off, and switch to shuttle engines (got the engine switch idea from U-2540).
- 4-way switch on attack periscope (spotlight, aft torpedo, fwd torpedo, AA gun).
- Door lock on forward storage compartment to use as makeshift brig.
- Auto sealing Bulkhead doors in event of breach.
- Breach/Flood alarm system in control room.
- Lots of switches to toggle things.
- Dual Ammo Deck guns (another idea from U-2540).
- One other surprise xD
'Greywolf' also has the largest and most complicated set of features of any of my subs. I'd guess there's over 1000 wires running through it, so soooo many components.
Also : @старая ворона Your U-2540 did give me ideas xD
Added Wifi channels used to the description of Workshop page, for info to anyone doing custom work to the sub.
If anyone finds any other issues, please let me know and I'll address them asap.
The battery/reactor issue is fixed, and is actually better now that they finally added a power/load outputs on the reactor. There is a slight delay to switching over to batteries on power loss (switch will not toggle until reactor power reads 0). I'll try and address that in the future.
I boosted the reactor output slightly to account for the drones power drain when docked, so you shouldn't get any power loss there anymore.
I added a status check to the left airlock hatch for the airlocks drain, so now it won't continuously flood the airlock and ballast tank when the hatch is open. This should reduce some depth loss when flooding the airlock.
I did a few cosmetic fixes to the sub and drone, probably not noticeable unless you're really looking. Also the mini junction box in the drones airlock should no longer be able to take damage (I never intended it to be interacted with).
My friends and I had just tried the game, and we wanted a U-boat xD
Select the component and there is a toggle to make it interactable, once set you can use the screwdriver.
I always turn it off after I wire components so i don't accidentally break things xD
I'll look into that. Not sure there is a way to detect a breach, just flooding in a compartment.
@Helbrecht
Turn off reactor, place rods. Turn on reactor.
Bring up the right slider first (usually around 80-90%).
SLOWLY bring up the left slider to a stable temp, then hit the auto switch.
If you go too fast the heat will build up so fast it triggers the automatic shutdown.
Hope that helps.
@Helbrecht
Double check the Reactor is actually on. By default the sub starts in battery mode.
During the initial battery recharge, there is a heavy draw on the reactor. You should be running it with multiple rods in during battery charges (I usually run with 4).
The AI like to run it with just 1 for some reason, and that may be causing your power loss.
Once the batteries are charged, 1 rod is more than enough to manage the power needs of the sub.
@Jaime
Something isn't right there. Even with that room and the ballast below it full of water, its not normally enough water to sink the sub completely. The Fore and Mid ballast tanks should automatically empty to compensate. You may get a bit of drop as the sub attempts to adjust the water volumes, but it should right itself pretty quickly.
That said, if the sub is not set to "hold position", its possible the tanks aren't emptying to compensate, and the sub just keeps dropping. In my testing, the most I've had it drop was about twice the height of the sub.
There is another exit to the sub in the left side of one of the Ballast tanks (the Mid one if I recall correctly) if that one works better for you.
All it requires is a water sensor in each compartment wired to a matching light. When water is detected, it sets the lights state to "on". I have mine tied to the same water sensors that open the drain valves and shut the compartment doors when water is detected in the compartment.
Or do you know any other sub that has it and is smaller?