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Hide and Seek - Museum

Winners read the description!

Disclaimer: Do not turn off the challenge start switch after the challenge has started. It is required to be on for several mechanics in the map.

§1 Seeker Minigame Explanation

While waiting for the others to hide, the seeker gets to play a little mini hide and seek in advance. In the seeker room, there are a total of 2 switches hidden throughout, not counting the bathroom stall door switches. In the back left corner of the room right next to the bathroom there is an elevator. Finding the 2 hidden switches will turn on the 2 green logic gates, allowing the large black switch to actually function as a means of moving the elevator up and down. Upon taking the elevator, you will gain a long distance view through several layers of glass at the museum, giving you a small edge over the hiders currently trying to hide in there. I also strongly recommend reading §4 to make any hide and seek map a smoother experience in the future.

§2 Map Details

- There are 47 switch based spots on the map and one direct toilet access spot that does not require a switch
- Hiders have 3min to hide
- Verbal hints are recommended at 8min (challenge timer, 5min after start of seeking)
- Don't destroy anything, it's not required
- If you manage to get outside of the map, congrats, you found a bug, get back in there you cheat
- The big green start switch starts the challenge, the big red end switch ends the challenge
- You don't need to check seats for switches, only seats inside hiding spots will have them, for example to help you leave a spot or troll the seeker
- If I didn't forget any, all seat based hiding spots that would pop you out of the spot when exiting the seat will have a spudgun attached to the seat for the purpose of audio hints
- Spots not close to or hardly visible from switch locations will have audio and/or visual clues to guide you there. If you pressed a switch and don't see anything, take a step back, look around, walk around and check for bright colors, lights or bot heads making noise

§3 Additional Details

The exterior building design is based on the natural history museum in London, however this is not a to scale copy and the interior is completely made up.

Link to hiding spot cheat sheet:
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Kd9zQMGFz-f-W0i9t-08MGKVznZwPbdiXoh-CZ_hqXU/edit?usp=drive_link

My other maps:
https://gtm.steamproxy.vip/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=3528666015

§4 A lesson in pressing switches correctly

I frequently see people in Youtube videos struggling to hit a switch despite being able to see it clearly, because they don't fully understand how the hitboxes work. Most objects in scrap mechanic that look like they don't fully cover a block actually still cover the block fully or at least a lot more than they appear to with their hitbox. For that reason, switches behind such objects can be frustrating to toggle unless you know how the hitboxes work.

a) Which hitboxes are true to their shape and which aren't?
As a general rule of thumb: if the object is pipe or tube like or a wedge, then the hitbox is usually pretty true to what the object looks like. For any other objects, the hitbox of the object is usually in full blocks. For example, the gaps underneath a steel pallet, even though they are fully see through, are actually fully covered by hitboxes as if it were a normal block. Where as a small pipe piece only blocks the hitbox exactly where the pipe is. Also it is worth mentioning that a switch itself does not provide a full hitbox. The back of a switch acts as a full block face, but the front side hitbox is only about 2/3 of a block thick. This is still a lot bigger than the shape of the switch, so if you can't reach the switch shape, you can try the empty air in front of it, just not all the way to the edge of a full block.

b) How is it then still possible to hit switches behind full block coverage objects?
In Scrap Mechanic, it is actually possible to interact through walls, if the blocks you are trying to reach through only touch on the block edge, not the full block face. For whatever reason, the hitbox of a full block is a little too short on the edges, leaving a gap between diagonally touching blocks. If you precisely aim at that gap, you can access switches or place blocks behind that gap. However since this is only true for the very edge, this means that when you have a seemingly see through object with a switch behind it, you still have to aim at the edge of the object as if it were made of full blocks and not at the visible part of the switch.

c) What do I aim with?
Since hide and seek is usually played with the hud turned off, a spud gun is provided as an aim assist. There is two ways to use the spud gun. The first is simply as an aim assist to better know where your cursor is. In this case you want to be aiming with the slit in the screw. All of the inside of the slit will allow you to interact when aiming with it, but only the inside rectangular gap, nothing outside of it. The second option is using the spud gun to trigger at long range in the form of shooting. What's worth mentioning here is that this method will not be able to trigger gaps mentioned in b). Also, spud gun potatoes can not trigger the sides of a switch and have a much harder time triggering the back of a switch, but are absolutely able to trigger the empty air in front of the switch that is still part of the hitbox.