I am making this guide to help both new and old players alike, hopefully. A few notes from what I have done and ideas for those who just want a little step up as they begin a career game. I probably won't have everything, but it will be quite a bit and I will add more as I gain knowledge or new portions of the game come out that I learning about. I don't play all aspects of the game. I started to play Mobile, but I got frustrated real fast and didn't want to spend a lot of money to play a game. I like the desktop version due to pay once and get to have fun without the worry of will I need to be on top of things I am doing or have to wait until I can race again.

Like I said though, this is basic stuff to help new and old people who might learn something from what I am sharing.

Creating your first horse, farm, rider, and plan out your legacy. (This will be cleaned up and neater)

Your first horse (legacy) will be a Thoroughbred. I will explain later on how to move your legacy horse to a different breed.

You will be able to choose color, dilution, pattern, markings, and name. This is the Legacy from your "father" in the story. I'll try to keep a list up to date for the patterns and markings. Color, pattern, and stats are the genetics you can work with when making your first horse. Appearance and Patterns are listed in another part of this guide.

Naming your Stable, Picking the sign and silk colors, and avatar for riding. These are the touches to make the Stable unique to your tastes. Not as diverse as a few other racing games I have played in the past for color combination choices or being able to choose pattern and color combinations yourself, but it is robust enough for what the game is offering.

Once your Stable is named, your legacy horse is made and named in the game. Then off to the races we go.

You have your Stable and your first horse (Legacy).

Legacy horses are important. They have a bonuses to gaining experience as they race. Only thing is, you only get one, and it is inherited by direct descendants to this original Legacy horse. Keep your first horse as long as possible. You will be manually racing for a while, your most important thing right now is race, win, and save funds. Breeding will help for Prestige levels, but right now, you need funds and experience. Flat racing is your only choice at first. This is also the fastest way to make funds when you have your Stable up and running fully.

You will be manually racing your horses until you gain access to hiring a jockey for your races.

You will want to go easy on breeding your horses. Gaining levels on a horse until Prestige 10 is slow going and you have to plan accordingly.*

Another fund building option is making bets. Though, until you start hiring jockeys, do not rely on bets as part of your funding options. It is if you are sure you can consistently win races that betting becomes an option.

Before you can get jockeys and have horses trained up to win races consistently, do not plan to increase your stable's horses beyond 3 racing horses. Your Legacy (best is to keep that a stallion if possible, greatest chance of increased stats and number of possible Legacy heirs that way) horse and your other 2 racing horses. Grade level does not effect breeding stats that I have seen. You have your Legacy horse as your main racing horse, plus the two who can be used to complete missions for training. Keep them around last training requirement mission had them. When training up new racing horses, have them stop training at the last requirement for missions. Keep racing them for experience to be ready for that next requirement mission. Use one to finish the mission, training only to that skill(s) requirement for the mission. (at higher grades, you might want to keep more than 3 horses up at the mission requirements, on the possibility need other training or sell horse with specific stat levels, the latter you can sell pastured/retired horses you have retired if they have the right stats)

A note on pasture/retire horses. If you have favorites from a grade, pasture them. Or you want to save horses for future missions. Like if you have a good horse with maxed stats for one grade, it could possibly fulfill a mission to sell an adult horse with X stat. Even if it is a lower grade.

(I personally have horses pastured from early on in the game. I occasionally pasture horses I think have merit for breeding, but need space for profitable horses or new foals in stable. I also tend to keep former Legacy horses to see where I had started and worked from. They are usually the horses I worked with until right before increasing Grade. I will explain the Grade Stats from breeding and increasing Grades in another section.)

*Prestige 10 is when your stable will really pick up as far as training. On the training page, you will have a max training toggle at the bottom of the page. Be careful with this, it will cost you training fees, plus cost for any tokens you do not have for the training.

Yes, lots of text.

Okay. Not going over what Grades will give what unlocks, besides you will want to keep an eye out for Prestige perks, like betting, jockeys, and max training. These help if you do not have a lot of time to manual race and want to make a profit in a short amount of time to buy that horse from Market (10 minutes at higher tracks can allow you to make 3-4 million in funds flat racing. (at Prestige 17, Grade 8 horses cost me below 4 mil.)

You will want to make up to 2-3 million in funds, but it will take a bit of time. You are going to be looking at a number of good stat Mares equal to the number of foal stalls you have. Each Grade will take a little bit to get settle if you use your horses only to breed up into a new Grade for your stable. Prestige has a little bit of an influence on increase of Grade for your horses.

Now, Grade and Stats become a muddy mess if you are searching for answers through various media. Took me a while to understand the ins and outs of stat breeding. Now, for the information of Grade, Stats, and breeding for higher stats for each Grade.

You will be looking at Grade numbers and Grade Letters. There is a minimum and a maximum for each Grade. Each is given a Letter to represent it in the horse's expanded stat tab. That can be found on the upper right of the box showing your horse's current stats. Letters represent the Level 1 Stats. You will see the Max stats on this page above the Letters, and above those you will see the Stats without the care bonuses (for the horses you bred and raised yourself).

The letter represents the Base Level 1 stats. Max potential is the highest this particular horse could reach at Max level. Then above that, you will see the currently trained stats with level underneath. So, say I have a Speed of C, 179 Max, and 137 current at 26/40. Horse is Grade 8, so Level 1 stat was 60. Being a Thoroughbred, that stat got a breed bonus of +2. I cared for this horse so, there was also a Breed bonus of +3 on that stat, as I was not lucky enough to get the +4 in that particular stat for him. He is also my Legacy horse, so he is getting a boost to Experience per race as well. So, He started with a Speed Stat of 65, after bonuses were applied. With an approximate of 5-6 points added per level increase. He has done pretty good so far. I'll include a chart showing Letter and Number for Level 1 prior to bonuses, per Grade.

This is before breed or care bonuses are applied. So while your foal stats are being shown, it will show the base stats, then will add in the breed stats, giving you your horse's starting stats. Foal Care will give you Bonus stats that will be randomly applied to your horse's starting stats. Foal Care bonuses will change as you gain Prestige, and increase Foaling stall levels, and what amount of care you give the foals before having them become adults. Whether by caring for them yourself or buying the services of 1 of 3 caretakers.


Moving onto breeding for higher stats per Grade when going up a Grade, without purchasing or going outside of your stable horses for breeding. For Example: If you have a Grade 7 horse pair with B, A, or A+ stats, and they give you a Grade 8 foal. Do not be discouraged if that foal has D or C stats. If that foal was Grade 7, it would be in the A and A+ range. With the Grade 8, the letter stats would make the foal look abysmal. Remember, you are just starting a new Grade.

To increase the chances of going up from a D or C stat, you put together the highest Letter stat horses once you have Stallions and Mares of Grade 8. Numbers are adjusted by Breed and Foal Care, so you are looking for a Base Level 1 stat, which is represented by the Letter stat. You can get a Foal, with say, a Letter stat of D for Speed. This Foal becomes a Stallion. You have a Mare who has a Letter stat of C in Speed. You could have a chance of a B in Speed. Though, it is only a single stat increase or decrease either way. So, if both horses had a B stat, the foal could have C, B, or A stat in the skill. You have a greater chance of an increase with the same letter stat over several breedings. So, if you have a horse with a horse, possible results could be at best A+ACBA+, at worst: CCDDB.

(NOTE: This is to the best of my knowledge from multiple matches and foals at different Grades. Based on charts I have kept for each Grade and Breed matches.Also, to my understanding, Mobile has a time limit for Foal Care to get the Best Foal Care Bonuses.)

With knowing how to increase base stats, not focusing on training and which competitions that the training is best for. There will also be a few touching bases with Letter and Number Stats, as well as preferences for Flat Racing. I will mention what each Ability is and when they come into play best.

Flat Racing is going to be the first competition you have access to with your new game at Prestige 1.

Race and Ride unlocks are for Flat Racing, Free Roam, Cross Country, and Steeplechase. (Later Show Jumping, when it is added.) In that order. I will include a few ideas on training for each, depending on what you plan on for play modes.

Prestige 1 & 2 will be Flat Racing only. Which is pretty self explanatory mode for the competitions. This is also a good fund builder once Jockey hires are unlocked. Betting will be covered later.

Prestige 3, you will be able to free roam areas. These have jumps, pathways to ride along. Good place to practice jumping and speed for the Cross Country and jumping competitions.

Prestige 4 gives you Cross Country, which is where jumping stats come into play.

Prestige 5 is Steeplechase. This is like Flat Racing, but with jumps.

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Speed
Sprint
Acceleration

Speed
Agility
Jump

Speed
Sprint
Acceleration
Jump

TBD

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Speed
This is one stat that bridges all of the competitions. This could be the difference between being first or being second, gold or silver, but pretty sure there is more to this than just being your bread and butter stat. This stat is what will keep your horse ahead or dropping behind the other horses when not sprinting. Speed also determines the speed of the sprint, which is weird, but will explain why momentarily. You will want this stat trained for any discipline you play in RSHR.

Sprint
Not as simple as it is named. This is actually the stamina of your horse. People have asked, why don't they just name it Stamina... Who knows. This core stat allows you to do that final stretch at speed for flat racing, get that little bit of a lead after a perfect jump in Steeplechase, and how long can your horse sprint between jumps in Cross Country (possibly same in Show Jumping when it is released).

Acceleration
A lot of people might ignore acceleration. I prefer to think of acceleration as the stat that allows the horse to pick up and go when everyone else picked up and went. It can be determined to help get that extra little bit out of your speed when in that last stretch of track. Speeding up between jumps in Cross Country. Speeding up between jumps as well in Steeplechase, since there is a moment after the jump your horse is not at top speed anymore.

This effects how much sprint energy is needed to gain max speed during a sprint. Quick example, if your horse has a D in Acceleration, it'll take more sprint energy to catch up to a horse with a B Acceleration. Not as noticeable in one letter stat differences, but two letter stat the difference is a little more noticeable.

Agility
Horses have to move well in order to keep their position in the jostle of racing. Though, this stat was not always recognized as the stat that helped keep your horse on the rail, turning tight for the jump, or bursting out of the gate before other horses for that perfect start. That latter did get changed as well, but it was for a good cause.

This stat was at one time only good for Cross Country. The Developers gave the stat some love though, and now it effects more than just Cross Country.

For Flat racing, Agility effects positioning and stamina regain. After all, if your horse is not fighting to keep from being jostled, it will be holding back that little bit of extra energy to make that push at the end.

Cross Country hasn't changed much. Tight turns, lining up at speed, and staying on course without too much slowing to get through the course.

Steeplechase uses agility to make the jump zone larger, to make it easier to clear the jumps perfectly.

Jump
Probably one of the most changed stats. Since it originally was just for Cross Country. Now, for Flat Racing it is for how fast your horse can come out of the gate. This could mean you get out front fast with a Front or Middle preference horse.

In Cross Country and Steeplechase it effects how fast Sprint energy comes back after a jump. The higher the stat, the faster it comes back.



In any competition, decide what you want to concentrate on. Early on, money will be tight, unless you breed your horses, max their stats out, and race the ones you like best for their abilities. At early races, I concentrated on the core stats. I listed those above the Stat descriptions and current uses for the stats. Just remember, training costs, racing costs, and buying or breeding horses costs.

This is a big thing for your career in racing for this game. Everything has a cost. Upgrading, racing, training, breeding, buying. The thing is to plan out your goals and how you want to reach them. You have several ways of funding your stable and getting out on top of the racing game.

The best way to make money early on is in Flat racing. You will be manually racing for a bit. This is A, D, S, and space bar. Your horses will only race as well as you can control them, and any placement is good initially. Your first horse could be great or a dud. Either way, it is your legacy horse and you will want to be good to that Legacy horse along the way. Winning is the best way to make funds.

With the races, you will want to look at the odds, stats, and Grade. Your horse and the horses in the race. Jockey skill doesn't come into this until you have that option unlocked.

Making Money

The basics of this is your Homestead Payouts, which is passive income. Not much at first, but as your stable upgrades, you get more income this way. If your homestead is ready to upgrade, do not collect your income until after you upgrade, that way you get the new amount. Otherwise collect as you can while playing. This will give you a boost if you over spend at some point. This usually happens most often early in the game. Whether from bad luck racing or just didn't budget well for training, breeding, or buying.

Winning races is obviously the best way to make funds. You check the odds. If your horse has the best odds for that race, you have a greater chance of winning. Before your jockey unlock, you are racing manually. Odds give your horse a good chance of winning, you just have to learn how to keep your horse in the position to win. Most times, if you have a good horse, you get out front, stay on the rail, and push for the finish during the last 200. That is my strategy. It is easier to do this early on, the slide for the gate is not too fast and the perfect exit for the gate is easy to time.

When betting comes into play. You'll have a good idea of where you sit for placing in a race. So, bet for your skill. If you have a decent chance of first or second, bet for second place. If you are confident of your win, bet first place. Do not rely on this extra, as you will need to be aware of your budget and what your goals are for your stable.

If you have a horse that has won a lot, done you good as far as racing, breeding, or whatnot. You have a choice of pasture or sell. If this is your legacy horse you are looking at, pasture is safe, if you decide to sell, make sure you transfer that legacy bonus to a foal from that horse. This is where your breeding budget comes in. You are breeding for a better horse. Early on you want funds, not perfect stats. You'll be jumping prestige levels pretty fast, and you'll want to upgrade your stable, stalls, and breeding as much as possible. The better Grade your horses are, the better races you can have them in. The more money they will make you.

Grade, Track, and Unlocks
This section is mainly about making funds, but your horses are a big part of your success in making funds for your stable.

The races you are going to be working with start with Rookie (2000-3000 maximum winnings) and go up to Legend (500,000+ maximum winnings). Bets are a bit more varied, but will be comparable to the races over all. Bets are based on odds, and can be fun, but they can also be money sinks if you don't race smart and are confident about your horse's racing (and your own skill if you race manually without ever hiring a jockey).

Your horse's Grade will determine the races they can join as you go through the Prestige levels. Pay attention to your foaling stalls' levels, horse Grades if you buy from market, and your breeding plans. A horse will all D stats can still win races, but you will have to plan around the handicaps and pay attention to the odds and stats of horses they are up against. Up until a certain point, you can pretty much ignore your Agility and Jump stats for making money. You'll see when you need to start worrying about those two stats at higher Racing tracks. By that time you can hire Jockeys and you can ignore position preferences for the most part, if you don't mind hiring jockeys.

If you race manually, test your horses out on lower tracks, plan out your training. Race for as long as possible to make enough funds for your next breeding, upgrade, training, and race/bet. Use your Homestead income collection for that little extra to fill in gaps or just be that helpful little extra that might get you that new horse before the 10 minute timer is up and new horses are in the market.

When jockeys become available, you can speed up training, and racing. You do have your goals of getting higher prestige, so you can increase the Grade of horse you can breed/buy. You need to pay attention so you don't lose your legacy bonus for a single horse. I usually try to keep the legacy on a stallion with good stats. The other thing to remember about the Legacy horse, it can only give that legacy to one of the foals from it. Breeding will be talked about later.

As for making funds on other competitions. They do pay for the rides based on time or position.

Jockeys
Useful unlock. Especially if you only have a short time to get a race or two in. You can skip the view of the entire race with a jockey. You'll pick your horse, one of 4 jockeys that will change the base odds, and can decide to bet or not. Remember, this is about profit from your horse winning and your bet being a winning ticket. So, hiring a jockey versus manually riding your horse will be a thing of budget versus win/lose income.

Jockey hire is not a 100% win situation. You have to balance your horse's stats and preferences, a jockey's skill level, and your confidence in the balance of those numbers. You can actually lose money on a hired jockey race. Now, if your horse comes in the top 3, you will gain a bit of profit without a bet, 4-6 position is pretty much made back the funds spent, no real return. Anything beyond that is just lost funds and you might get a little to maybe make back a portion of what was spent, no profit or coming even though.

This is if you are playing this game for profit between goals and upgrading your Prestige, Grade, and Facilities.

NOTE: Jockeys are only for Flat Races. Everything else is manual riding.

Stable Costs
Stable costs that you cannot ignore are Upgrades, stall purchases (only 3 foal stalls, but you have to buy horse stalls depending on how big you want your herd), and breeding/purchase. You can sell some of the stuff you get from racing, but you will not want to sell much initially. Only sell enough to keep your storage from filling up. Upgrade materials, you want to keep. "Feed" you will want to keep if you care for your foals when that unlocks and for training your horses. Caretakers are expensive, but useful if you can afford them for a foal with good stats that you want racing like yesterday. Training can get expensive real fast if you are not careful. Upgrades can help a lot. Homestead upgrade, increase of passive income. Training and Foal Stalls, better stats and upgrading Grade (slows down at higher Prestige levels, but gives you time to increase base stats in your horses).

Horse purchases can get expensive and they have to be trained from level 1 to max. Foals you breed have a base level.

Example: Grade 8, Prestige 18, foal will start with 18/40 level that can be trained. Purchased horse, 1/40 starting level. I love me some purchased horses, they can have some great stats, but they are hard to work with when you have more than 20 levels to get through and feel like you are making a profit with them. Leveling a horse is also a reason for hiring jockeys. You will be making funds with your foals as adults before you make decent funds with a purchased horse.

Well, here we go into the less interesting parts of the game for those who don't care about what they race, as long as it can win.

You have several breeds of horses to choose from. Thoroughbreds being your starter. In order of release (I think): Selle Français, Arabian, Quarter Horse, Knabstrupper, Mustang, Appaloosa, Akhal-Teke, and Anglo-Arab.


Crossbreeding stats will be a mix of the horse's stats. Best way to figure them out is through 50/50 crosses. Like a Quarter Horse x Thoroughbred will get breed bonuses of Speed +3, Sprint +1, and Acceleration +4.
It is usually 1/2 the total stat bonus for the breed for a 50/50 cross. So, with the cross example, if we added the bonuses for both breeds together we would get a Speed +5, Sprint +2, Accel +7. We divide by 2 and round up. Probably not perfect, but easier than making a table for all the 50/50 crosses. Other percentage crosses, I don't have the math worked out for yet, I also didn't spend much time dealing with more than 50/50 and 25/75 crosses. It takes at approximately 4 generations to get a "100%" breed from 50/50.

Best horses for each competition: (based on core competition stats)
Flat racing horses - Thoroughbred, Arabian, Quarter Horse, Mustang, and Akhal-Teke.
Cross Country - Selle Francais, Knabstrupper, Anglo-Arab
Steeplechase - Thoroughbred, Selle Francais, Appaloosa, Anglo-Arab

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This section is mainly just about the breeds themselves. Each has stats that make it better for one competition over another. I put in my ideas of which would be good for which. Though, any can be good at any competition, as long as the player understands and can compensate for the differences in stats. If just playing solo came and not in competition with other players, breed stats are just a bonus to the base stats, just like foal care gives bonuses to stats. (for example: Prestige 18, Grade 8 foals can get 4 +3 and 1 +4 stat bonus. The +4 bonus will be applied to a random stat.)

Genetics effects Color, Dilution, Pattern, and Stats.
Traits are aesthetics that are random. This includes face and leg markings.

A notation of genetics involving the horse's looks. Color, Dilutions, and Patterns have so far been the only known aspect of the breeding that can be passed on through genetics. There is a possibility to breed until both visible and hidden pattern genes can be 90% predictable. For example if that player crosses horses with patterns of Belly Appaloosa and White Nape enough times until those two patterns will be matched visible and hidden. Now, through testing, there is a chance of a pattern "mutation" where a new pattern will appear along the way. Same with color and dilution.

The rarest, and hardest, colors to be able to set for breeding is Rich Black, Classic Black, and Classic White. These will become hidden genes pretty quickly, and disappear within a few generations without taking the time to breed until Black/White visible/hidden are more common in pool of horses being used for breeding. Though, when I tried this line of breeding, I was only able to keep the line going for 2 Prestige levels before the Black/White genes were replaced by Bay and Chestnut, Browns showed up not long after last Black/White genes left breeding pool of Grade level.

Colors
(Base colors for the horse, use single no dilute to see the base color, these are part of the genetics of each horse)
Classic White
Classic Black
Classic Chestnut
Classic Bay
Classic Brown
Rich Black
Rich Brown
Amber Chestnut
Flaxen Chestnut
Copper Chestnut
Copper Bay
Golden Bay
Blood Bay

Dilutions
(Dilutions can be single or double, part of the genetics of each horse)
None
Cream
Champagne
Gray
Dun

Traits
(These have a 40% chance to show up on the specific breeds listed next to the Trait, 10% on all other breeds)
Majestic Mane (Mustang)
Crystal Coat (Akhal-Teke)
Noble Braid (Anglo Arabs)

Pattern

(Patterns are in Gene Groups for game, part of the genetics of each horse)*

Brindle
Swirling Brindle, Hind Brindle, Heavy Brindle, Wild Brindle, Tiger Brindle

Leopard Complex
Appaloosa Fade, Patchwork Appaloosa, Clover Appaloosa, Dalmation Appaloosa, Collared Appaloosa, Irregular Leopard, Powder Appaloosa, Roaning Appaloosa, Flowing Leopard, Brindled Leopard, Clustered Peacock, Appaloosa Band, Lilypad Peacock, Heavy Blanket, Chunky Appaloosa, Belted Blanket, Snowflake Blanket, Belly Appaloosa, Mixed Leopard, Brindled Snowcap, Lavish Snowflake, Appaloosa Frame, Half Appaloosa, Leopard Splash, Scattered Leopard, Dusted Blanket, Waterfall Peacock, Leopard Blanket, Mixed Blanket, Sporadic Blanket,
Wild Appaloosa, Lavish Appaloosa, Frosted Appaloosa, Marbled Leopard, Sparse Leopard, Blotched Appaloosa, Spotted Appaloosa, Appaloosa Mask, Banded Appaloosa, Few Spots , Appaloosa, Masked Few Spots, Odd Spot Appaloosa, Polka Dot Leopard, Freckled Leopard,
Expressive Leopard, Opaque Leopard, Cloudy Leopard, Belly Leopard, Lavish Leopard, Twin Leopard, Leopard Storm, Speckled Leopard, Warped Leopard, Majestic Leopard, Partial Leopard, Leopard Frame, Sprinkle Leopard, Neapolitan Leopard, Frosted Peacock, Pintaloosa, Peacock Appaloosa, Arched Pintaloosa, Smudged Pintaloosa, Hind Appaloosa, Circle Pintaloosa, Striped Pinto, Cloudy Pintaloosa, Pintaloosa Stripes, Pintaloosa Puzzle, Blanket Pintaloosa, Half Pintaloosa, Lavish Pintaloosa, Pintaloosa Vest, Snowcap Appaloosa, Majestic Snowcap, Swirled Snowcap, Splattered Appaloosa, Dusty Snowcap, Blotch Spotting, Leopard, Blanket Appaloosa,
Cloudy Appaloosa

Dapples
Dapples, Heavy Dapples, Powdered Dapples, Shadow Dapple, Twilight Dapples, Frosted Dapples, Snowstorm Dapples, Framed Dapples, Torn Dapples, Lavish Dapples, Spiderweb Dapples, Blotch Dapples, Mini Dapples, Splash Dapples, Sparse Dapples, Cloudy Dapples, Patchy Dapples, Speckled Dapples, Snowflake Dapples, Fleabitten, Patchy Fleabitten, Marked Fleabitten, Speckled Fleabitten, Classic Fleabitten, Splashed Fleabitten, Majestic Fleabitten, Hind Fleabitten, Beauty Mark Fleabitten, Lacing Fade, Lacing Blanket, Dappled Lacing, Frame Lacing, Blended Lacing, Leopard Lacing, Roaning Lacing, Saddled Lacing, Speckled Dapple, Radiant Leopard, High Socked Tobiano, Fleabitten Sabino

Pinto
Belly Dapples, Overo Flair, Overo Blanket, Whisper Pinto, Middle Overo, Thorny Overo, Skeleton Overo, Crescent Overo, Sharp Overo, Patched Overo, Majestic Frame, Sparse Overo, Splattered Overo, Swirling Overo, Frame Overo, Tovero, Lavish Snowcap, Smokey Overo, Overo Fade, Lovely Overo, Expressive Tobiano, Pintaloosa Jacket, Pinto, Tobiano Arc, Smudged Pinto, Wavy Pinto, Pinto Jacket, Blurred Pinto, Zebra Pinto, Pinto Splash, Winged Pinto, Frosty Pinto, Belly Pinto, Twin Pinto, Sparse Pinto, Badger Pinto, Scattered Pinto, Stippled Pinto, Ombre Pinto, Fingerpaint Pinto, Cartographer’s Pinto, Heart Pinto, Waist Splotch, Continental Pinto, Pinto Peak, Snowstorm Pinto, Etched Pinto, Pinto Leggings, Stocking Pinto, Inkblot Pinto, Belted Pinto, Pinto Embrace, Jumpsuit Pinto, Beauty Mark Pinto, Gaited Pinto, Slant Pinto, Half Pinto, Gradient Pinto, Fading Pinto, Sporadic Pinto, Spotted Tobiano, Patchwork Pinto, Dotted Tobiano, Lavish Pinto, Pinto Stripe, Pinto Band, Pinto Fade, Splattered Sabino, Sabino, Smokey Sabino, Painted Sabino, Horseshoe Sabino, Lavish Sabino, Swirled Sabino, Lovely Sabino, Sabino Wave, Inkblot Sabino, Puzzle Piece Marks, Mini Sabino, Wispy Sabino, Spiked Splash, Cloudy Tobiano, Silhouette Tobiano, Tobiano Strike, Jagged Tobiano, Scattered Tobiano, Neckline Tobiano, Speckled Tobiano, Topline Tobiano, Tobiano Blotch, Sporadic Tovero, Stippled Tovero

Spotting
Rusty Dapples, Birdcatcher Spots, Sparce Spotting, Starry Spotting

White Face
Starry Dapples, Half Splash, Splash White Face, White Flare Face, White Nape, Splash Dip, Saddle Splash, Dappled Splash, Splash Cutout

Rabicano
Rabicano, Belly Rabicano, Rabicano Fade, Blanket Rabicano, Frosted Rabicano, Polka Dot Rabicano, Roaning Rabicano

Roan
Grungy Sabino, Sleeved Roan, Tattoo Roan, Brushed Roan, Lightning Roan, Flecked Roan, Misty Roan, Scarred Roan, Masked Roan, Charred Roan, Smokey Roan, Blanket Roan, Hazy Roan, Tovero Wave, Foggy Roan, Crumpled Roan, Shadow Roan, Varnished Roan, Smudged Roan, Pearlescent Varnish

Face Marking
None, Arced Blaze, Badger Face, Bald Blaze, Bald Ermine, Bald Face, Bald Focus, Bald Head, Beauty Spot, Blazed, Blocky Blaze, Blotch Blaze, Borderline Blaze, Broad Blaze, Broad Stripe, Bumpy Blaze, Cow Lick, Crescent Blaze, Cricket Blaze, Crystal Star, Curve Stripe, Curved Blaze, Diamond Badger Face, Diamond Star, Faded Star, Faint Star, Fallen Star Stripe, Fingerprint Star, Fleck, Half Bald, Hook Stripe, Husky Blaze, Infinity Star, Interrupted Stripe, Irregular Blaze, Irregular Star, Lip, Long Snip, Milk Mustache, Piked Strip, Pinstripe, Pointe Star, Ripple Star, Scant Blaze, Shooting Star, Smokey Blaze, Smokey Puff, Smokey Wisp, Smooth Blaze, Snip, Sparse Stripe, Splotch, Spot, Star, Star Strip, Star Stripe, Stripe, Stripe Lid, Stripe Snip, Sun Ray, Umbrella Star, Wide Badger Face, Zip Stripe

Leg Markings
None, Ankle, Coronet, Full Sock, Half Pastern, Half Sock, High Sock, Irregular Fetlock, Irregular Sock, Pastern, White Heel

*Table came out weird. Was supposed to be equal sized cells, but I took out markup code until I can figure out what went weird for the table being equal width for each column.