1. Camber: This is the vertical tilt of your tires.
   
   • Negative (-): Tilts the top of the tires inward. Good for cornering grip. A little bit helps a lot on twisty roads like C1.
     
   • Positive (+): Tilts the top of the tires outward. You generally don't want this for racing.
   
   
2. Toe: This is the horizontal angle of your tires, like looking down at your feet.
   
   • Toe-In: Front of the tires point towards each other. Increases straight-line stability.
     
   • Toe-Out: Front of the tires point away from each other. Makes the car turn into corners more sharply.
     
   • Note: The adjustments in this game are quite large, so small changes have a big effect. Most of the time, leaving it at 0 is fine.
     
   
   
3. Ride Height: How high or low your car sits.
   
   • Lowering your car (-) improves handling by lowering its center of gravity. This makes it feel less "boaty" and more stable at high speeds. It's one of the most effective changes you can make.
     
   
   
4. Offset: Pushes your wheels further out from the car body.
   
   • A wider stance (higher value) can slightly increase stability. This is mostly for looks to get that perfect "fitment."
     
   
   
5. Tire Width: Changes the width of your tires.
   
   • In this game, this setting is purely visual and doesn't affect performance. Set it to whatever you think looks coolest.
     

1. ABS (On/Off): Anti-lock Braking System. Prevents your wheels from locking up and skidding under heavy braking. Keep this ON unless you're an expert who wants to manually control brake pressure.
   
   
2. Brake Balance: Shifts braking power between the front and rear wheels.
   
   • More Front bias (- value on Rear): Makes the car more stable under braking, but can lead to understeer (car wants to go straight).
     
   • More Rear bias (- value on Front): Can help the car turn better when braking, but can also cause oversteer (car wants to spin out).
     
   • Leaving this at 0 is usually best.
     

1. LSD Type:
   
   • 1 way: Works only when you're on the gas (accelerating). Good for Front-Wheel Drive (FF) cars.
     
   • 2 way: Works when you're accelerating AND decelerating. Offers maximum stability but can make the car harder to turn. Good for drifting or 4WD/RWD experts.
     
   • 1.5 way: Works fully on acceleration and partially on deceleration. This is the best all-around choice for most cars, especially Rear-Wheel Drive (FR).
   
   
2. Initial Torque: How quickly the LSD locks.
   
   • Higher value (Strong): The LSD engages sooner with less wheel slip. Good for high-power cars to control wheelspin, but can make turning feel heavy.
     
   • Lower value (Mild): The LSD waits for more wheel slip before engaging. Makes the car feel more nimble.
     
   
   
3. LSD Ratio: How aggressively the LSD locks.
   
   • Higher value (Strong): Locks the wheels together very tightly. Maximizes traction but can cause snap oversteer if you're not smooth with the throttle.
     
   • Lower value (Mild): A smoother, more gradual lock. More forgiving and predictable.
     
   
   
4. If you have separate F/R LSD (4WD cars):
   
   • Front: Use a 1-way or 1.5-way to avoid making the car understeer too much.
     
   • Rear: Use a 1.5-way or 2-way for good stability and traction out of corners.
     

1. Spring Rate: How stiff your springs are.
   
   • Harder (+): Reduces body roll in corners, making the car feel more responsive.
     
   • Softer (-): Allows more body roll but can absorb bumps better.
     
   • A good rule of thumb is to set your dampers about half as stiff as your springs.
   
   
2. Damper: Controls the spring's movement. Think of it as resistance.
   
   • Harder (+): You need harder dampers to control harder springs. Prevents the car from feeling bouncy.
     
   • Softer (-): For softer springs.
     
   
   
3. Damper Balance: Controls how fast the dampers react.
   
   • Rebound: The car recovers from bumps/turns faster, making it feel more nimble but potentially twitchy.
     
   • Compression: The car recovers slower, making it feel more sluggish but also more stable and predictable.
     
   • Leaving this at 50 is fine for most setups.
     

• Stiffer front (+ on Front): Increases understeer.
  
• Stiffer rear (+ on Rear): Increases oversteer.

• Individual Gears (1st, 2nd, etc.):
  
  • Slider to the right (Acceleration): Shorter gear, faster acceleration, lower top speed in that gear.
    
  • Slider to the left (Top Speed): Taller gear, slower acceleration, higher top speed in that gear.
  
  
• Final Drive: Affects ALL gears at once.
  
  • Slider to the right (Acceleration): Better acceleration across the board, but lower overall top speed.
    
  • Slider to the left (Top Speed): Sacrifices acceleration for a higher maximum speed.
    

• Slider to the left (Front): More power to the front wheels (e.g., 50:50). Gives the car an All-Wheel Drive feel, very stable.
  
• Slider to the right (Rear): More power to the rear wheels (e.g., 10:90). Gives the car a Rear-Wheel Drive feel, more agile and prone to oversteer. 0:100 makes it fully RWD.

Ursprungligen skrivet av me:

"Tuning is about balancing trade-offs. There's no 'perfect' setup."