Hi, My name is tabby and I’ll be teaching you about how to create an Outfit for Haydee 3.

This guide will be catered towards people who have not had any experience with modding or any 3d software. I’ve taken the time to extensively explain the entire method of modding from start to finish. I consider this to be mostly foolproof, but if something is confusing, please join the Haydee Discord and ask the community. I’m sure another modder could help.

Most of this has been copied and pasted from my Haydee 2 Outfit Guide, and you may see some images that still have Haydee 2 as a directory. The process is very similar, so just imagine those are Haydee 3 directories.

If you are a 3D/Blender artist or a 3D modder, then most of Chapter 1 should be pretty simple. I am not sure how modding works for other games, but I am sure there will be some similarities.

I’m known in this community for being the “furry god” but I’ve decided to break away from that title for this guide. I will be using Mileena from Mortal Kombat 9 to demonstrate the modding process. It’s just easier to work with a human (or katarkan I guess) for this game. The model is an edited Daz3D model and it was made by Mavixtious.

Modding Haydee takes a very long time. Some of my mods, like Gardevoir, took a whole week to create and perfect. I suggest giving yourself time to process each step and make sure to follow directions CAREFULLY. One small mishap could lead to tons of work being scrapped and restarted. Take breaks when needed, either after each Chapter or somewhere that’s safe to stop. Also,


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• 0.1: Blender & HaydeeTools
  
• 0.2: Haydee Files
  
• 0.3: 7Zip
  
• 0.4: Folder Directory
  
• 0.5: GIMP
  
• 0.6: Notepad (or Notepad++)
  
• 0.7: Your Own Model

• 1.1: Opening Your Model in Blender
  
• 1.2: Adding Haydee to your Blender Workspace
  
• 1.3: Now You Can Begin
  
• 1.4: Last Minute Editing/Planning

• 2.1: Exporting Your Model to Haydee Files (Pt. 1)
  
• 2.2: Exporting Your Model to Haydee Files (Pt. 2)
  
• 2.3: Don’t Forget Textures

• 3.1: Weight Painting: The Good, The Bad, and the Commitment
  
• 3.2: Tips and Tricks for Weight Painting
  
• 3.3: Exporting Your Model to Haydee Files (Pt. 3)
  
• 3.4: Testing Your Model in Edith

• 4.1: Creating Your Maps
  
• 4.2: Don’t Forget Material Files
  
• 4.3: How to Create An Outfit (File)
  
• 4.4: Zipping Your Outfit for Haydee 3
  
• 4.5: Uploading…

Of course, before you actually start this process, you must gather all your tools to prepare yourself. You will need to download 4 programs, and set up 5 Folders in your Haydee 3 Directory.

If you have had any exposure to 3d programming and modeling, then you should know what Blender is. Blender is an application focused on 3D Modeling, Sculpting, Animations, and more. For this process, you will use Blender to Create, Edit, and Import/Export your 3D model to Haydee 3.


Download Blender via Steam (recommended for easy version switching): Blender on Steam
Download Blender via Official Website: Blender on Official Website[www.blender.org]

For those who have experience with Blender already, this should be much easier for you. You should know terminology such as Edit Mode, Material Preview, Vertex Groups. I will be attaching images to visualize my directions.

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HaydeeTools is a Blender Extension made by the official developers. Once installed, It will let you Import and Export Haydee-specific files. This will be used for transporting files from Blender to Haydee. It is like a mod for Blender.

HaydeeTools: Download HERE[github.com]

Here is how to install HaydeeTools:

1. Click the link below. It will take you to the GitHub page of the addon.
   
2. Click the Green Button that displays “Code”, and then click “Download ZIP”.
   
   DO NOT EXTRACT THE ZIP FILE
3. Open Blender, and then select Edit on the top left, then select Preferences
   
4. In the newly opened Blender Preferences Window, Select Install, and navigate to your HaydeeTools ZIP file
   
5. Click on the Zip File, and Click the box so that it displays a Blue Checkmark

HaydeeTools should now be installed. The easiest way to check is to see if your Panel displays “Haydee” on the right. Once it is installed to right way, “Haydee” should pop-up under “View”

Of course to mod Haydee, you need to have the source files. There are a few things you will need


This is the #1 thing you will need for this process. A Haydee Skeleton will be the link between your character model and Haydee.
You can download it here:
Haydee Skeleton Post


In order to give your character model the correct proportions and bone structure, you will need HD512, the main character of Haydee 2.

1. Go into your Haydee 3 directory and go to your "Packs" folder
   
2. Open the "Actors" ZIP file and navigate to the "Aurora" folder
   
3. Click on that folder and unzip it to anywhere outside the Haydee 3 directory

That folder contains all of the source files for HD512. You will use it to help cross-reference your model’s proportions and weight values.


I've created a Map where you can test out your mod without having to open a preexisting map. You will start using this in Chapter 2.

1. Download the file Below these instructions
2. Place the file in your Maps folder (Haydee 3 Directory, then Maps)

Download HERE[drive.google.com]



If your model has Normal Maps/Textures, this will be the easiest way to properly convert your model’s Normal Maps/Textures to Haydee-exclusive files and accurately display them in-game. Haydee 1 is also the easiest way to convert your textures to .dds files, which is the main texture file format for this game.

You can buy it officially on Steam: Haydee on Steam

7Zip is, from my research, the best ZIP file manager. It lets you adjust compression size, add regular files to ZIP files, and much, much more. You will not be using 7Zip for this process until the very last chapter, but you should install it now.

Download 7Zip (it’s free): Download HERE[www.7-zip.org]

If you have another ZIP file manager then that’s ok. As long as you don’t use the built-in file manager on your computer.

0.4: Folder Directory

In order for your mod to be organized, you must have a folder dedicated to all of your Haydee Files and Textures. You will need to create multiple folders in a certain directory, so follow these instructions.

1. Go to you Haydee 3 Directory, then go to your “Outfits” Folder
   
2. Create a new folder, and rename it to your character’s name or the title of your mod
   
3. Inside your newly created folder, create 4 more folders titled “textures” , “materials” , “thumbnails” , and “dmesh”

GIMP is an image editing software that comes with loads of tools for tinkering with image files.Think of it as a free version of Adobe Photoshop. If you need to flip a texture, create a Haydee Normal Map from scratch, want to edit a Specular Map, or create a Mask Texture, GIMP is an easy way to do so. Over time I have found myself using more and more of GIMP when creating my color customization mods. It comes in handy even if you don’t have to use it.

Download GIMP Here: Download HERE[www.gimp.org]

Why Notepad? Well, you’ll need this to create your Outfit File. You will do some coding to create your .outfit file and have it be read by the game. Wouldn’t be very nice of me to hide the coding part until the last chapter.

Notepad should come with your computer, but you can download Notepad++ here: Download HERE[notepad-plus-plus.org]

Your folders are now ready, you have all the apps, and you're prepared for Haydee modding.

Let's get started.

Last and certainly not least, you must have your model ready to be opened in Blender

Blender can import a variety of file types for 3D Models. Some popular ones are .fbx, .glb/.gltf, .obj, and many more. Blender also has its own specific file name, called .blend. This file type can be opened with Blender itself, and does not require any extra importing.

Blender also supports many addons that allow other 3D model files to be imported into the software. Some notable ones include:

SourceIO: Imports Source Filmmaker Files (SFM, .mdl files) into Blender
https://github.com/REDxEYE/SourceIO
MMD Tools: Imports MikuMikuDance Files (MMD, .pmd/.pmx) into Blender
https://github.com/MMD-Blender/blender_mmd_tools

You can install these addons the same way you installed HaydeeTools.

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Throughout these years, Blender models have been getting more advanced and less beginner-friendly. Older models are guaranteed to have a simpler interface for beginners to navigate, since they do not come with as many extra features as the newer models.

If you are going to mod a well known character, there is a large possibility that they have multiple models made by different authors. I highly recommend searching for a model that is meant for 3.6 or lower. Trust me, it will be way less headache inducing once you start.

I also highly recommend using SFM Models, they are very beginner-friendly, and SourceIO Imports them as FK rigged models (beginner friendly rigs).

This chapter focuses on adapting your model to Haydee’s standards by posing, scaling, and editing your model. You will also (if you have not already) be planning what your outfit’s options are, such as clothing toggles and/or body morphs. This is only the beginning, and arguably the easiest part of this process. Make sure to read instructions carefully

The very first step is to open your model in Blender.

If your model is a .blend file, you are able to open it using Blender

If your model has another file format, such as fbx or gitf, then you can import it by going to
File->Import.


Mileena has a .blend file. Once I click on it, Blender automatically opens. After it finishes loading, the scene looks like this:
Make sure you are in Layout mode. You can create one by going to the plus sign next to the last Workspace tab and selecting General->Layout.


Take note of where all the tools are. You will be using these 6 the most while going through this process:

1. Is the Mode selector. You will be switching from Object Mode, Edit Mode, Pose Mode, and Weight Paint while modding, which are all accessible by clicking that box
   
2. Is the UV Editor tab. You will not be editing the UVs of your character model, but you will export textures in that tab IF they are only accessible inside Blender.
   
3. Is the Outliner Menu. It will show all of the models, rigs, and widgets in your scene. You can click on model parts in this tab by selecting the names with orange triangles next to them.
   
4. Is the Modifier Properties. It will show all the modifiers applied to your model, including the Armature Modifier it has. The skeleton will be needed later.
   
5. Is the Data Properties. Vertex Groups on top, and Shape Keys on the bottom. Vertex Groups are the Group of Vertices on your model being controlled by a bone in the skeleton. Shape Keys are built-in model editors that are adjusted by entering a numbered value. For example, If I wanted Mileena's breasts to be bigger, then I would change the corresponding Shape Key value from 0.000 to 1.000 (and remove the pin). Shape Keys vary by model. Some could have a hundred of them while others don't even have Shape Keys. Take note of each one and what they modify.
   
6. Is the Material Properties. It shows you all the materials assigned to one part of the model. You will be using this later to separate model parts by material.

Next is Adding Haydee Files to your workspace. The 2 things you need to Import are the Haydee Skeleton and the body of HD512.

To Add HD512+Skeleton (Clothed Model in a T-Pose):

1. Go to “File” on the top right and click “Import”
   
2. You should see an option called “Haydee”. Click on that.
   
3. Click on the “Haydee Mesh (.mesh)” option.
   
4. Navigate to your Aurora folder, then select “HaydeeA”
   
5. Repeat for the file “HaydeeB”
   
6. Go to “File” on the top right and click “Append”
   
7. Navigate to The .blend file of the Haydee Skeleton, and click on it.
   
8. Click on the “Objects” folder, then click on “Skeleton.Clothed”

OR

To Add the Nude H512+Skeleton (Naked Model in an A-Pose):

1. Go to “File” on the top right and click “Import”
   
2. You should see an option called “Haydee”. Click on that.
   
3. Click on the “Haydee Mesh (.mesh)” option.
   
4. Navigate to your Aurora folder, then select “Nude.mesh”
   
5. WHILE THE NUDE MESH IS STILL SELECTED (highlighted in orange), Go back to Import
   
6. Click on the “Haydee Skin (.skin)” option.
   
7. Navigate to your Aurora folder, then select “Nude.skin”

Now your scene should have the Haydee files imported and ready. Using Clothed or Nude will not matter once you start exporting. If you do not see the .mesh, make sure they are in the Outliner Menu (titled HaydeeA, HaydeeB, or Nude). If they are, click on them and press the Question Mark key on your keyboard. This will give you a view of HD512 by itself and determine if HD512 is bigger or smaller than your model. If it zooms in, then you will scale your character model to be bigger. If it zooms out, you will scale your model to be smaller. Make sure you click on the key again once you are done.

Mileena is smaller than HD512, so I’ll need to scale her accordingly. In this next step I’ll go over how to match your model’s proportions to HD512’s proportions

In order to shrink/enlarge your model, you must use the scale tool

1. Make sure you are in Object Mode, then click on your model’s rig
   (I will be using the word rig for your model’s skeleton, and the word skeleton for Haydee’s skeleton)
   
2. Click on “Scale”, then use the tool to match your model to roughly HD512’s height. You should do a general scale first, then do small little scaling tweaks to fully match the height.
   
3. Make sure your model isn’t in front or behind the Haydee model with the “Move” tool.
   
4. Click on your rig and go from Object Mode to Pose Mode by clicking on the “Object Mode” box
   
5. Make sure you have “Mirror” on by clicking X on the top right
   
6. Start posing your model to match the pose of the Haydee model with the “Rotate”, and “Scale” Tools. For IK Rigged models, you should also use the “Move” tool You will need all of those tools to match Haydee’s proportions.

I know it is not very easy to get the proportions exactly right, so if you are having trouble, make sure you at least get these things correct:


Here’s how Mileena looks like for reference:
I know that this seems hard for beginners, but trust me when I say that in the end, your mod will look spectacular. Modding takes a lot of patience and time. Having both of those things is key.

If you want your model to have options and toggles in-game, you will want to make sure your model has those options in Blender as well. Remember the Shape Key menu? Make sure to look at those to see if you would want anything to be an option players can choose from like Body Morphs. Don’t get too ambitious though, if it’s your first time modding, you shouldn’t overwhelm yourself with too many options. Keep that in mind. My advice is to keep it simple.

Another thing that could happen is that your model could have a Shape Key specifically for clothing to be on or off. For example, Mileena has a Shape Key that adjusts her nipple position to match the clothes she wears. Changing the value of that Shape Key is basically a toggle for clothing to be on or off.
This step is separate because in the next chapter you will be acclimating your model to Edith, Haydee’s modding counterpart. You will need to export each different body/clothing option you want to have.

Once everything is finalized, You can move on to Chapter 2.

This step will be dedicated to moving your model from Blender to Edith. You will learn to get accustomed to Edith’s export system, prepare your textures for future use, and, most importantly, get ready for Chapter 3. This is a very straightforward chapter, so it will not be as long as the chapters before or after. It is really just a transitioning process.

or.. maybe you don't have to right now

Use this method if:

1. Your computer is NOT running slow or NOT using too much RAM because of your Blender scene.
   
2. Your mod will have a large amount of customization from Shape Keys, NOT individual parts/meshes.
   
3. Your mod does NOT have multiple OVERLAPPING Vertex Groups for the same bone/body part (Please check for this by going from Object Mode to Weight Paint, then selecting Vertex Groups with similar names. If there are Vertex Groups occupying the exact same area, then you must move on to 2.1 to find and use the correct group.)
   
4. You feel confident in your model and your modding abilities, or if you have already modded for another game like Haydee before.

If you can check off at least 3 out of 4 reasons, then you can continue. If you have even a small amount of uncertainty, then please move on to 2.1.

Got it? OK. Here is what to do.

1. Navigate to the Shape Key menu and set all Shape Key values to 0
   
2. Click on your model, then go to the Properties tab
   
3. Go to your Armature modifier, then click on the arrow and select “Save as Shape Key” your skeleton edits should now be a Shape Key titled “Armature” in the menu
   
4. Repeat for each model that you need to export.
   
5. When you’re done repeating, Go into Pose Mode, then select all of your bones
   
6. Right click, select Transform, then select Clear and All

Now your Armature should be a modifiable Shape Key. You can find it by scrolling down to the bottom of the Shape Key menu. It should be titled “Armature”. Change that value to 1.000 for each model you applied it to.

With that, you can skip 2.1 and 2.2. Jump right in to 2.3 to get your textures sorted.

Exporting is a simple process. Easy to learn, yet hard to troubleshoot. Before you export, you must cross out everything in this checklist

1. Your model’s name in blender does not have any special characters/symbols.
   
   Delete every character/symbol in your model’s name that is NOT an alphabetical letter. Edith can’t read special characters for whatever reason.
   
   
2. Your model has faces with the correct amount of vertices.
   
   I’m not going to explain this in detail because if you follow the directions below this shouldn’t be a problem. Just know that Edith can’t render a model that has faces with more than 5 vertices. Maybe if you're an Artist/Modder you’ll know what I’m talking about.
   
   
   1. Select your Model and go from Object Mode to Edit Mode
      
   2. All of your vertices should be highlighted in orange. If not, Press A to select all vertices.
      
   3. Select “Face” near the top left, Then “Triangulate Faces”.
      
   4. Repeat for each model you want to export.
   
   All of your faces should now have 3-4 vertices attached. Triangular faces are the standard for Haydee models, since HD512’s faces are also triangulated.
   
   
3. Your model has modifiers that don’t cause any problems when exporting
   
   If your model Has ANY modifiers that aren’t Armature, then I suggest you apply them by hovering over the modifier and pressing Ctrl+A. There are a few exceptions to this, so read below before you do anything
   
   
   1. Subdivision Surface
   
   The Subdivision modifier multiplies the amount of vertices in your model. In other words, it makes your model look smoother, but at the cost of requiring more resources to load. Only apply this modifier IF your model does not look good without it. You can check by deleting it with the X right next to the arrow on the modifier, and then undoing your action if you decide to keep it. Please note that Haydee is a game with decently low poly models.
   
   
   2. Solidify
   
   The Solidify modifier gives your model an extra layer generated by Blender itself. The problem is that the vertices affected by the modifier will appear black in-game due to them having Zero UVs. Do not apply these modifiers. Instead, delete them and see how your model looks without it. If it looks passable at least, continue without the modifier. If it looks terrible, as if the model can't function without the Solidify, Undo your deletion and be prepared to face this issue later. I will explain how to fix it.
   

Straightforward list. To export all of your models,

1. Select a model, then switch from “Object Mode” to “Edit Mode”
   
2. Right click the screen, then hover over “Separate” (You can also press P)
   
3. Select “By Material”
   
4. Click on one of the separated models.
   
5. Export the files to Haydee DMesh (.dmesh) the same way you imported them. This time, click on Export instead of Import, and export it to your “dmesh” folder. Make sure to name your .dmesh accordingly.
   
6. Repeat for each model you separated and for ones you want to export.
   
7. When you’re done repeating, Open Haydee 3 on steam and select “Launch Edith”
   
8. You should see a black screen with a blue and gray interface. Make sure your “Object Properties” is turned on by going to “Window” at the top of your screen. Also turn on the Lightbulb so you can see in the dark.
   
9. Right click the screen and hover over “Spawn” at the top of the menu
   
10. Select “Geometry” and then select “Model”
    
11. Navigate to your “dmesh” folder. Select the dmesh you’d like to export.
    
12. Click on your .dmesh file, then click both “Export Mesh” and “Export Skin”. You should export them into your “dmesh” folder. Repeat for each dmesh file
    
    • .mesh files are the files that hold your 3d model. It stores the actual “mesh” and the properties it was assigned with
    • .skin files are the files that hold the skeleton’s information. It holds the Weight Groups, and the Rig of your model. Soon it will hold the Bones of the Haydee Skeleton.

Make sure you’ve followed the checklist for EVERY model you want to export. Please check if it is triangulated or has a special character/symbol.

If the problem still persists, then there is something internal that can not be fixed.

This is usually the case with models that have a rig with extra features. There is something wrong with the rig itself that is preventing the model from being seen in Edith. Luckily, you do not have to “fix” anything. Just follow the steps in 2.0, then move on to Step 2.3. Delete all your previous .dmesh files if you exported them.


DO NOT WORRY ABOUT THIS JUST YET. They might disappear when you export a second time, so we will come back once you get to the 3rd chapter

Hopefully, your model has textures already exported to image format. It may be in a folder somewhere, or it could be a separate download. Copy and paste all of your textures to the “textures” folder you created.

If not, your model’s textures are accessible by switching to UV Editing. Here’s how to export them:

1. Go into the UV Editing tab, and Select “Image”
   
2. Select “Save As” and export the file into your “textures” folder
   
3. Repeat by clicking the image icon with an arrow next to it and selecting all images needed for your character.

For Normal Textures, make sure they are set with no Alpha and are in sRGB format, seen below


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Haydee 3 can read 2 types of files for textures: DDS files, and PNG files. DDS Files are preferred files meant for Nvidia-supported games like Haydee. Luckily, if you have Haydee 1, then you have an easy DDS Converter already.

1. Before opening Haydee 1, make sure all of your textures are inside the Haydee 1 directory. I usually put them in a new folder
   
2. Go to Haydee 1 (on steam) and select “Launch Edith”
   
3. Click on “Tool” at the top left of the screen, then click on “Import Texture”
   
4. Navigate to your textures inside Haydee 1’s directory and select the texture you want to convert. You should see a new window with your texture in the Edith interface
   
5. If your texture is a Diffuse/Base Color texture, select the DXT1, DXT3, or DXT5. The difference between them is the file size.The larger the number, the larger the file size. click “Save as DDS” and save it to your “textures” folder.
   
6. If your texture is a Normal texture, select the NormalMap option. click “Save as DDS” and save it to your “textures” folder.
   
7. If your texture is a Specular or Roughness texture, export then the same way you did the Diffuse/Base Color textures. You will edit these later (if you want to).

If you do not have Haydee 1, use a .DDS converter website, or just use the PNG format. Converting your Normal Maps will be explained in Chapter 4. Just make sure they're in your texture folder.

This part will really test your patience and dedication. It is a long process of typing, renaming, and zoning out. You may feel like quitting, but trust me when I say the light at the end of the tunnel is closer than you think

Before you deep dive into this step, What are Vertex Weights/Groups?

Vertex Weights are internal, painted segments of the model that dictate the influence of a model part

Vertex Groups are the groups that hold Vertex Weight information for skeleton/rig bones to control. They are usually named after the bone that controls them

Vertex Weights/Groups can be viewed with “Weight Painting Mode” by selecting the names in the Vertex Groups menu. Weights are determined by color & number value. Red has the most value with it being the most influenced and controlled by bones. Blue has the least value with dark blue not being controlled at all. Yellow is in between Red and Blue and means half influenced. Green and Orange are a mixture of 2 colors, so you can probably fill in the blanks.

Weights can also have a number value from 0 to 1. The darker the red, the higher the value. Pure red is 1.0, while pure blue is 0.0. Yellow is around 0.5, and Green and Orange are inbetween either 1.0-0.5 or 0.5-0.0
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For people who exported their models to DMesh, Create a new Blender file (File->New->General) and follow these steps

1. Import your .mesh file
   
2. Click on your .mesh file. Then, while your .mesh is still selected (highlighted in orange), import your corresponding .skin file.
   
3. Delete the skeleton imported by the .skin file (Press X while its selected)
   
4. Go into Edit Mode, Press A to select all vertices, then right click the screen
   
5. Select “Merge Vertices”, then select “By Distance”
   
6. Make sure your “Merge Distance” value is the lowest possible value (0.00001). That way only overlapping Vertices get merged together.
   
7. Go to the Material Properties, Click on “New”, then set the Base Color to a random color by clicking on the white rectangle.
   
8. Repeat for each .mesh file and corresponding .skin file
   
9. Once you are done importing files, select all the mesh files, and press Ctrl+J to join them together.

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For people who have not exported their models to DMesh, follow these steps

1. Apply all modifiers in the Modifier Properties. This should include the skeleton and any extras.
   
2. Select a part of your model, and switch from “Object Mode” to “Edit Mode”
   
3. Right click the screen, then hover over “Separate” (You can also press P)
   
4. Select “By Material”
   
5. Go into Material Properties, Select the yellow circle next to “Base Color”, then select “Disconnect” on the far right.
   
6. Set the Base Color to a random color by clicking on the white rectangle.
   
7. Once you are done recoloring, select all of your model’s parts and press Ctrl+J to join them together.

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Before you continue, just one more thing you need to do

• Import the HaydeeA/B.mesh OR Nude.mesh file
  
• While the mesh file is still selected, import the corresponding skin files
  
• Move the imported Haydee .mesh files by clicking and dragging it with the Move tool. Move it to a place where it does not overlap with your current model. Delete the imported skeleton if you want

Now you are ready to move on to the next step, which is renaming your Vertex Groups.

So, what exactly is this step? Why is it necessary?

This step will go over the final link between your model and Haydee. In order for your model to be playable inside Haydee's engine, you must make sure all of the Vertex Groups are able to be controlled by the Haydee Skeleton. Right now, your model is able to be controlled by the skeleton that was binded to it. This is the same skeleton that you used to pose your models in Chapter 1, and the same one that was imported via .skin files. Now, you must bind your models to a new one: The Haydee skeleton. In order to do that, you must rename all possible Vertex Groups to the names of Haydee's Vertex Groups. That way, the Haydee Skeleton can find which Vertex Group is assigned to each bone since they will share the same name. This is also why I had you import the Haydee .mesh files, so you can copy the names of the Vertex Groups you need.

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This is arguably the most boring part of the process. You will need to Rename all possible Vertex Groups to the names of Haydee's Vertex Groups.

Haydee's Vertex Group names are structured like this: "SK_(example)". You can look at all of the Vertex Groups by selecting the Haydee mesh and going to the Vertex Group menu.

Here's how to copy the names of Vertex Groups

1. Click on your model, then change from "Object Mode" to "Weight Paint Mode". This mode visualizes the Vertex Groups that you select
   
2. Click on the Data Properties
   
3. In the Vertex Group Menu, double-click on the Vertex Group you would like to rename
   
4. Your selected Vertex Group name should be highlighted in Blue, and the Vertex Group should display the weight information on your model. Rename the Group to the corresponding Haydee Vertex Group (SK_[example])

Most Vertex Groups need to be combined in order to match the size of Haydee's Vertex Weights. You will most likely need to combine multiple renamed Breast groups and/or multiple renamed Spine groups. Here's how to combine them

1. Go to the Modifier Properties, and then click “Add Modifier”
   
2. select “Vertex Weight Mix” at the far left of the dropdown menu
   
3. Set Vertex Group A as the Base Group (your renamed SK_[example]) and Group B as the Group you would like to add to the base
   
4. Set “Vertex Set” as “Group B” and “Mix Mode” as “Add”.
   
5. Apply the Modifier once you are finished.

Please Note, you will have to do this with almost every Vertex Group. The only exceptions should be the ones that you are not able to transfer. I will go over this in detail, as well as other tips, in my next step.

Here are some things you should keep in mind while renaming Vertex Groups

Now you have a model that has fully converted to Haydee Vertex Groups, but how do you test it?

1. Add your Haydee Skeleton again the way you did in 1.2, then click on your model
   (you’ll have to import the Nude.mesh again if you chose that method.)
   
2. Go to the Modifier Properties
   
3. Click on the empty "Object" box inside the Armature modifier, then select the Haydee Skeleton

With that, you can now pose with the Haydee Skeleton, and your model should move with it! If a part of the model isn't moving with the skeleton, then you might have renamed the Vertex Group incorrectly. make sure you check for those names. Also, undo all of your posing before you move on.

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So if your model works with the Haydee Skeleton, it should work in-game right? Well now it’s time to test that theory by exporting one more time.

1. Separate your model parts by material again
   
2. Export your parts as Dmesh again, but this time save it in your [Outfit Name] folder. Not in any subfolders. For those who did step 2.0, make sure you change your File Format from “Haydee 2” to “Haydee 1”. That way you textures don’t flip.

Here are the steps to test your model

1. Launch Edith and open Haydee 3\Maps\BLANK.edith by going to File->Open (Also disable the Lightbulb)
   
2. Right click and then select “Spawn: Actor”. You should see a sprite with a duck on it. Click on the duck sprite.
   
3. A menu should pop up. If not, make sure your “Object Properties” is turned on by going to “Window” at the top of your screen.
   
4. Select “Add Component”
   
5. Select “Animation” and then select “Skeleton”
   
6. Add the skeleton by going to Haydee 3\Actors\Haydee. Haydee.skel and Haydee.skeleton are the same thing.
   
7. Add another component. Select “Geometry” and then select “SkinMesh”.
   
8. Add the .mesh and .skin files by clicking on the dark blank boxes. Your model should have moved slightly after you put the .skin file. The .mtl files will be added later. You can color-code the mesh by selecting the white rectangle near the “R” value.
   
9. Add another component. Select “Physics” and then select “Ragdoll”
   
10. Import the ragdoll by going to Haydee 3\Actors\Haydee.

Test your model's physics by pressing the spacebar while your model is highlighted, then clicking/dragging the model. If there is a part of your model that is elongated, or not moving the same way other parts are, then it is likely that the Vertex Group attached to it is not named correctly or does not have good weights. Make sure to go back to Blender to check those weights.

If your model is moving fine, then great! Strike a pose with the ragdoll physics.

(Here's a funny one you can make. Mod by kyukacola_cherry)



If the black spots have not disappeared since step 2.2, then it is likely that your model has something called “Zero-Area UV Faces”. This happens when the vertices are overlapping or when the vertices do not exist in the UV layout.Because of this, Edith can't calculate the faces’ lighting correctly, and it becomes a pitch black area on your model. You don't have to try this if you don't want to.

This is not very easy to fix, so pay close attention to these directions.

1. In Edith, make sure your model is in its default pose, then zoom in on the black spot you want to fix
   
2. Go back to your Blender tab (you should still have it open), then go into the “UV Editing” Tab.
   
3. Select “Image” and then “Open”
   
4. Navigate to your texture folder and select the correct texture for the model affected by black spots
   
5. On the right of your Blender screen, select the model affected by the black spots and go into Edit Mode. You should now see a wireframe/outline of your model's UVs on the left of your Blender screen. Press Ctrl+A if you don't.
   
6. Try your best to select the vertices that are affected by the black spots. This is where it gets tricky. You are going to have to guess by cross referencing Edith and Blender to get all the vertices affected. Make sure to hold “Ctrl” while clicking/drag clicking to select multiple vertices.
   
7. Once you are done selecting, go into “UVs” and select “Unwrap”. On the UV Editing screen, It should display a large shape highlighted in orange. Un-Highlight it by selecting anywhere on the UV Editing Screen
   
8. On the Blender Screen, go into Wireframe by Pressing Z then clicking “Wireframe”
   
9. Select all of the model's vertices by drag clicking the rectangle over the entire model
   
10. On your UV Editing screen, you should be able to see all of your model's Vertices, also known as its UV Structure. The big shape that you unwrapped should be in or around the center. Select the entire shape by pressing L on one of its dots (vertices), then scale it down so that it matches the size of the model's UV Structure.

There are two things you can do here

A. Find the place where the Shape should be, like a puzzle piece. For example, If your black spot came from a place on your character's body or cloth, it would be better to find the place it should be in by using your model's Base Color texture as a reference. There also could be a hole in your model's UV Structure that the shape was supposed to be in

B. Move it to a place in the texture where it could still look normal. This works best if your model's clothing or body has a larger shape, or if your texture has Bae Colors flat enough that moving a part of your model's UV Structure would make little to no difference. Simply drag it to a place that fits best.

After you are done moving the shape, you can see how it looks on the Blender screen by re-exporting your model to DMesh and checking it in Edith. Hopefully your model has no black spots by then you can finally move on to the last step. If not, you're going to have to go through a porcess of trial and error by finding all affected UVs.


Simply move the Tit bones in Blender a little bit upward, then export the affected models to .dmesh again. The Haydee Skeleton in-game moves the location of the breast bones 1.5m downward, so if you would like to keep the original location of your character's breasts, move the Tit Bones 1.5m upward in Blender. You can check how many meters you are moving by looking at the numbers on the top left while you move the bones.

If you used Vertex Weight Mix on the Breasts and added the weights to the chest, subtract the amount of influence you gave it from 1.5.

Equation: 1.5-x=y
x=[Amount of Weight Influence given to SK_Chest]
y=[Amount of meters you should move the bones upward].

If you have followed along and made it this far, then great! I’ve really wanted to help the community by creating a whole new modding scene, and if you’ve made it this far then that means my goal has been achieved. I appreciate you taking the time to read this and learn to mod for this game.

Before I start this I’d like to provide a brief overview of each Texture Map you can edit in Edith.

In Order of Appearance:

• DIFFUSE MAP
  : The base color texture for your model. The only texture that you will “need”. Everything else below is not needed for your model to have a material.
  
• NORMAL MAP
  : the texture that makes your model look even more 3D. It adds depth to certain parts of your model.
  
• SPECULAR MAP
  : a texture that controls the shininess of your model. Can also be edited inside Edith’s built-in Material Editor
  
• EMISSION MAP
  : the texture that dictates which parts of your model light up in the dark.
  
• CENSOR MAP
  : a black and white texture that tells the game where to pixelate your model if the in-game censor is turned on. Explained in full below.
  
• MASK MAP
  : a texture solely used for color customization. Explained in full below.
  
  ALL MAPS/TEXTURES MUST BE SQUARES OR RECTANGLES!! You can use GIMP to resize your textures (Tools->Transform->Scale)
  
  
  Creating Maps
  Some textures must be created and are not supplied with the model. Normal Maps must be edited in GIMP to match haydee's standard while Specular Maps, Censor Maps, and Mask Maps must be forged in GIMP. I suggest going through the process of creating Normal Maps and Specular Maps for the first time, but Censor Maps and Mask Maps require some extra image editing knowledge and are completely optional.
  
  Only follow this step if you either really want to go through the process of editing images for your first mod. Move on to 4.2 if you do not want in-game censoring, or would not like extensive color customization.
  
  You will also be using GIMP for this section. Have that ready.
  

Diffuse Maps are the Base Colors of your model. It is the stripped, unedited version of your model's colors, and are usually flat with no added depth to them.

Every model has a Diffuse Map, and your model should have came with one in Blender. Outside of a few exceptions, you do not need to edit this texture in GIMP. Simply leaving it in the "textures" folder should be enough, and you will use it once you create your Material File.

However, there are some cases where you may want to edit your texture further to help the presentation of your mod. Here are some exceptions:

1. You have a plan to add Color Customization to your body model
   
   This is explained in 4.1C, but you will need to make your Diffuse Maps white-colored Color Customization to work. See 4.1C for an example.
   
   
2. Your model's textures were made in Blender
   
   This is a rare case where the model author used Blender's built-in Material Creator to create the texture of a model. Since the texture has been forged in Blender itself, Textures like Diffuses, Normals, and Speculars appear differently in the UV Editor compared to the model. This is most common with models that have pattern-like textures and repeat themselves over the model.
   
   This will take some proper Blender & Image Editing knowledge to solve, as you will need to know how to recreate the pattern of the texture in GIMP, while also making sure the UVs of the model accept that recreated pattern. This could be a lengthy and confusing process if you're a beginner, so I highly suggest that if you get stuck on this, just make the diffuse texture a flat color and call it a day.
   
   Here is a (very) basic list of directions on how to adapt Blender Materials to Haydee
   
   
   1. Save the textures that are used in the Blender-forged Material (with steps from 2.3)
      
   2. Open one of your saved textures in GIMP
      
   3. Scale the texture down to about 1/8th-1/16th of its original size. Put it in the top left corner. Make sure to remember how much you scaled it down by. You will use this for any extra textures you saved.
      
   4. Copy the texture with Ctrl+C, then Paste it with Ctrl+V
      
   5. Move the texture to a place where it borders the texture that you copied from. Click the anchor on the bottom right to lock the position and include it in the same layer.
      
   6. Repeat 4-5 until the entire Canvas Size is covered
      
   7. Save your new texture in your "textures" folder
      
   8. Repeat 2-7 for each texture that you saved.
   
   
3. Your model has multiple textures for multiple body parts
   
   If your models have different textures for limbs, genitals, heads, or any other body part, then it could be easier to combine your models into one big model, and your textures into one big map. I do not suggest doing this if its your first time modding.
   
   Mileena has multiple textures for her arms, torso, genitals, and legs, so I combined all 4 textures into one big square, then I edited the UVs to match. In Blender, I used Ctrl+J to join the arms, torso, genitals, and legs together, then I scaled their UVs to 1/2 of their size (0.5m) in the UV Editor tab. After that, I opened my combined square Diffuse Map in Blender, then used the move tool in the UV Editor to overlap the UVs on the Diffuse Map. Finally, I export the combined mesh to DMesh.

These are all optional, so if you don't want to tinker with your diffuse textures, your models, or other texture maps, you can skip this.


Emission Maps are textures that emits light in-game. The color of these textures light up in the dark. The most obvious example is Haydee's clock in Haydee 1, which lights up in dim places because it has an emission map applied

Most models don't have Emission textures unless they have a part of their body or clothing that is meant to light up. If they do, then you most likely have an Emission texture exported already, which you can keep in your textures folder.

If you would like to create an emission texture (for example if your want your character's eyes to glow in the dark), then I've made this small diagram using the eyes of my Krystal mod to demonstrate how to create one



What I did here is edit the Diffuse Texture in GIMP to create the Emission Map. I took away the whites of her eyes with the "Select By Color" & "Erase" tool, then I replaced it with black. This is because in-game, the black of an Emission Map cannot emit color and generate light, therefore it will just show the Diffuse Texture. I also edited the Diffuse texture to remove here Iris. In-game, the Emission Map is stacked on top of the Diffuse Map, so any overlapping colors in both maps will have their colors multiplied and appear even more saturated. As I said earlier, black cannot emit color, so in-game the color of the Iris will just consist of the Emission Map, not the Diffuse Map.

Hopefully that wasn't too confusing. To put it simply, all you have to do is keep the parts of the Diffuse texture you want to glow in the dark as the same color, and for the parts you don't want, color them pitch black. Then, edit the Diffuse texture with the opposite coloring rules of the Emission texture.

Specular Maps

Starting with Specular Maps, these are quite challenging. I myself haven’t been able to fully figure this out because of how different they are to regular Specular Textures. Here is a summarized version of what I got by asking other modders and researching online.

• Specular Maps are a combination of Metalness and Roughness Textures. The strength of those textures are displayed as color values
  
• Red represents the Roughness texture’s strength. The darker the red in the Specular Map, the shinier the texture will be.
  
• Blue is solely for the Metalness of the map. Use blue only for Metals in textures.
  
  
• There are no “generators” for Specular Maps. Not even Haydee 1 has one. What you’ll need to do is open GIMP, import the Specular/Roughness Textures (by going to File->Open As Layers), and then adjust the color values accordingly. Refer to the previous bullet points for color reference.
  
  
• Here's my general process for Creating Specular Maps
  
  1. Open the Roughness texture in GIMP
     
  2. Go to Colors->Colorize
     
  3. Set the Values to these:
     
     • Hue = 0.0
       
     • Saturation = 1.0
       
     • Lightness = -0.5
  4. Go to File->Open As Layers
     
  5. Select your Metalness texture
     
  6. Use "Select By Color" (Shift+O) to select all of the pitch black parts of the texture. Erase the Black with Shift+E. Deselect by Pressing Shift+Ctrl+A
     
  7. Go to Colors->Colorize again
     
  8. Set the Values to these:
     
     • Hue = 0.65
       
     • Saturation = 1.0
       
     • Lightness = -0.5
  9. Adjust the Opacity of the Metalness by using the meter by the Layer Menu. The amount of opacity is up to you, but I recommend an opacity of 0.5-0.8
     
  10. Save your texture to your "textures" folder by pressing Shift+Ctrl+E.
  
  Sometimes my Specular Maps are just Red Roughness Textures. My Lovander mod, for example, just has a Specular Map for her body that's various shades of red. Here's what it looks like.
  
  
  
  In-game, you'll see that the nipples are shinier then the rest of her body. This is because on the Specular Map, the nipples are a darker shade of red.
  
  It’s really just frankensteining. If you have a better method please PLEASE let me know :’)
  
  
  Censor Maps
  
  Censor maps, as described earlier, are black and white textures where the white parts of the texture are the in-game censor. Here’s the easiest way to create a Censor Map:
  
  
• Open your body texture in GIMP
  
• Create 2 new layers. One that is all black, and another that is transparent. Move the black layer below the other 2 layers, and then hide the Black layer (by clicking the eye next to it)
  
• Make sure the transparent layer is above the layer with the body texture. Now, while the transparent layer is selected, use the paintbrush (on the top left) to paint over where you’d like the censor to be. The paintbrush color should be white.
  
• After you’re done painting, delete the layer with the body texture, and unhide the Black layer. Export your file (File->Export As) to your “textures” folder.
  
  If you have experience with Blender Texture Painting, you can create a censor map in Blender as well. Just create a new Black Colored Image , apply it to your body model, then use Texture Paint to add the white parts near the privates. Make sure the white isn’t on the chest or legs by checking the texture and the model's UVs. Save your newly created texture to your "textures" folder.

Normal Maps

Normal Maps are textures that make your model have depth and give the illusion of a 3D surface. Converting your Normal Maps to Haydee-specific Normal Maps is pretty simple.

1. Open your Normal Texture in GIMP
2. Decompose your Normal Texture (Colors->Components->Decompose) and click OK
3. Do the same process and Compose your Normal Texture (Colors->Components->Compose)
4. Change your color model from "RGB" to "RGBA"
5. Change the Red, Green, and Blue Channel Representation to the red layer. Then change the Alpha Channel Representation to the green layer. Click OK







With that you should have a Normal Map ready for Haydee. Export it to your "textures" folder.

Mask Maps

Mask Maps are the final maps. This is only used for Color Customization or if you’d like your model to have textures made by Edith itself. I have done quite a few Mask Maps, so I can confidently say: don’t do this if you don’t have experience with image editing.

But if you want to, here’s a brief overview

The Mask Map is a texture that can help colorize a model via the Outfit File (explained later). It has 4 color values: Red, Green, Blue, and Black. Each color is at its highest value, 255 (except for Black at 0,0,0), and can be mixed together. The Red, Green, and Blue colors of the Mask Map can be edited in the Outfit File, while the Black value can not.

One very important thing to note is that in order to get Mask Maps to work correctly, the affected Diffuse/Base Color texture (AND Emission texture if you have one) must be pure white or as white as possible. Mask Textures work best when the diffuse texture it is affecting does not have any other hue influence. If you would like a part of your diffuse texture to NOT be affected by the Mask Map, make sure to leave that part untouched. Also, Make sure to edit your texture AFTER you’re done creating the Mask Map.

The process of creating one is very similar to creating a Censor Map. It’s just with extra colors.

• Open your diffuse/base color texture in GIMP
  
• Create 4 new layers. One that is all black, and 3 that are transparent. Move the blacklayer below the other 3 layers, and then hide the Black layer (by clicking the eye next to it).
  
• Select your base color layer, then, either with the “Fuzzy Select” tool or the “Select by Color” tool (Tools-> Selection Tools). select what part of your diffuse texture you would like to be Red, Green, or Blue
  
• After selecting, click on one of the 3 transparent layers and use the paintbrush/pencil tool to color in your selection. If you have a part of your Diffuse texture that you would NOT like to be affected by the Mask Map, make sure that part is colored black in the Mask.
  
• Repeat for the next layer(s). If you want all 3, use 1 color for each layer. If you just want 2, delete one transparent layer then use 1 out of the 3 colors for each layer.
  Don't use 2 colors for the same layer.
• Once you’re done coloring, Export your Mask (File->Export As) to your “textures” folder. Make sure “Save: All Visible Layers” is selected in the Export Menu if prompted.
  
  I've made this visual for how my Mask Map and my new Diffuse Map for Renamon was created.
  
  For the Diffuse Map, I saturated the texture with HSV Saturation (Colors->Saturation->Scale + Blending Options->Mode->HSV Saturation). Then, adjusted the Exposure accordingly (Colors->Exposure->Black Level + Exposure). As you can see, I copied the nipples from the Original Texture because I wanted them to stay pink no matter what color the player chooses.
  
  For the Mask Map, I separated each part of Renamon's fur. Green is for the yellow fur, Blue is for the white, and Red is for the purple. For the nipples, I’ve decided to color them black because, as mentioned earlier, I want them to stay pink no matter the fur color (which is why they’re still pink in the Base Color texture)
  
  Sorry if I am rushing through this GIMP part. I’m not well versed with photoshop-esque programs and I think an in-depth tutorial from me would be vague. There are many resources online to help you with learning GIMP and its various tools. They can explain it better than I ever could. It’s just a Google search away.

How to Create Material (.mtl) Files in Edith:

1. Go to the “Tool” Menu on the top left of your Edith screen.
   
2. Select “Material Create”. It should open a window with a small black screen and some boxes for different Maps.
   
3. Click on the “Mesh” box and navigate to your mesh file. Once you double click on it, it should appear in the black screen
   
4. Click on the Map boxes, and import the corresponding texture files for your mesh.
   
5. Click “Save As”, and save the file to your “materials” folder. Rename it accordingly.
   
6. Repeat for each material file you need

Now your model should have material files at the ready. Here are some extra options in the Material Creator

• You do not have to have all of the Map boxes filled, just fill the ones you have.
  
  
• You can also change the Specular (Shiny/Metallic texture) values with the numbers below. If you have an imported Specular Map, then these directly affect the parts of your Map that are colored Red or Blue. If you want your material to look more metallic (edits the Blue of the Specular Map), Change the "0.0000" value on the right to a higher decimal number. If you want your material to look shiny, like oiled or wet, Change the "1.0000" value on the left to a lower decimal number (edits the Red of the Specular Map). Note that the interval for these values is from 0.0-1.0, so you cannot go any lower or higher than those values.
  
  
• Another box you can check is the “Two-Sided” Box. If the check is on, your texture will display on the inside and the outside of your model. Use this for Clothing.
  
  
• There are 3 types of materials built into Haydee. “Opaque”, “Hair”, and “Mask”. Opaque is the standard and is used for about every default material. Hair makes your material look shiny so it could mimic the texture of real-life hair. Mask is a material used for Diffuse Maps with transparency. If you have a Diffuse Map with transparency, such as ripped clothing or hair, select Mask so it can work correctly in-game.
  
  MASKING ONLY WORKS FOR TEXTURES WITH 100% OPACITY/TRANSPARENCY. HAYDEE IS UNABLE TO RECREATE TEXTURES FOR GLASS-LIKE OBJECTS IN OUTFITS DUE TO THE WAY TEXTURES WERE CODED.

This is probably because the UV Map on your model is vertically flipped. I tried my best to avoid this problem while giving directions

If your materials look strange, try opening your texture in GIMP and select the flip tool (Tools->Transform Tools->Flip). Then Ctrl+Click will make it flip vertically. go to File->Overwrite once you flip.

Now you just need your Outfit file for your mod to really come to life.

Outfit (.outfit) Files are files that contain lines of code to help the game understand what it needs to load. They are editable with Notepad. It consists of a lot of brackets and directories, so it is not the best idea to start one from scratch. These files are placed in the “Haydee 3/Outfits” Folder.

I have supplied a template .outfit file as well as a few .outfit files from mods that already exist. These should be the files that you use as a base to build your own Outfit. Before you start however, you should know the general lines of code


Folders are built-in organizers that hold Toggles or Slots for your Mod. Clicking a folder in-game will lead you to “Checks” or “Slot Values” These are always at the beginning of the file.

Optionally, you can put folders inside of folders by filling in the (Folder_Name) with the desired folder you want to put it in.


Checks are simply toggles for your mod. Clicking them in-game will make a part of your mod appear or disappear. These are always at the beginning of the file and must always be in a folder


Slots are also built-in folders, except you have predetermined values you can edit. Clicking on a Slot in-game will lead you to those values, and you can choose between one or the other slot(s). These are always at the beginning of the file



This is the general code for your model part. It contains the .mesh file, .skin file, and the .mtl file, all which you have created before this step. These will display in game all the time unless you have Conditions, which are explained below.


Conditions are placed before the base mesh code. They have 3 variations:

• Check: The mesh or mtl appears only if this check is selected(true)/deselected(false)
  
• Slot: The mesh or mtl appears when this specific slot is chosen
  
• Censor: The mesh or mtl appears when the in-game censor is turned on/off. If you have Censor Mapping on your mtl file, the censor map will be turned on/off by default.

Here’s what they look like when combined with a mesh code:



You will understand this better once you look at the Outfit files


Colors are placed under the Mesh code and display the RGB value of a texture. It could be under a condition, or it could be under the mesh code. You can change the R, G, and B to any number from 0 to 255. R is the standard color and can affect any texture's color even without a Mask Map. G and B can only be edited if you have a Mask Map in the .mtl file

Under a mesh code, it looks like this (E is for Emission. Edits the Emission Map’s color the same way R does to a Diffuse Map.)


Inside a Condition code, it looks like this


Once that condition is selected, those specific color values will show

This is another type of code you will understand better when you see it in the Outfit files.


Seen at the end of the Slot and Check code as well as the start of the file, these should be PNG or DDS files close to a 3x4 format and placed in your thumbnails folder. It is exactly how it looks.

I highly recommend that your Thumbnails have some kind of transparency, as Outfit toggles/options will flash white or black depending on if the option is selected or not.


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Here are some Outfit files that could be used as references. Make sure to download the mod of the outfit file so you can see how the code works in-game. Use the TEMPLATE.outfit to start your mod’s .outfit file (rename it to the name of your character/mod), then copy the code from above or from the files provided to fill your .outfit file. I’ve also included some mod files as well so you can see how they work in-game


The original Outfit file that was made for the game. Has slot conditions as well as Color Conditions.

Outfit file with censor conditions on meshes. When censor is off, clothing disappears.

Outfit File with a single Slot condition.

Outfit file with RGB code for alternate colors. Use this to see how body color customization works..

Outfit file with RGB code for the bikini. Good for seeing how clothing colors work in-game.

Outfit file with both check conditions and slot conditions

Another outfit file with both check conditions and slot conditions. This time there are multiple clothing presets with conditions specifically for them.

Of course I need to supply the example mod I’ve been showing this whole time. All this has is check and censor conditions

I do not suggest using these last 2 as references, but instead for observation purposes. To really see how complex an .outfit file can get.

The OG “you can do this in Haydee?” mod

My most complex mod yet.


Make sure that the directory in the outfit file always leads to your mod folder.

Once you have your Outfit file finalized, you can start zipping and shipping.

If you’re an experienced modder or artist then I’m sure you know the solution to this, so you don’t have to read this part.

This is probably the most common problem you will encounter in this guide. Many clothing models don’t have weights that are strong enough to match the body, which causes clipping. Even Mileena has this problem unfortunately. I’ve encountered this problem so many times, so here are 2 things I do to fix it:


If your character has clothing that covers an entire section of their body:

1. Go back to the Blender file where you renamed all of your weights
   
2. Select your body model, then go into Edit Mode
   
3. Go into Wireframe, then select the vertices that are covered by the clothing (Do this by Clicking then dragging to make a box. Also make sure you hold Shift while doing so)
   
4. Delete vertices by pressing X
   
5. Export your Body model as a DMesh, then export the DMesh into Mesh and Skin.
   
6. In your Outfit File, make sure you code newly created mesh to be visible only when the clothing is on. Then make sure your original body model is only visible when the clothing is off. Usually, this requires you to have the condition code of your clothing and your new body mesh to be the same. The old body mesh should have the opposite condition code.
   
   For Mileena, I have a body specifically for when her suit is on, and a body for when her suit is off. Check out Mileena’s .outfit file to see what the code looks like.
   

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If your character has skimpy clothing, or clothing that only covers a small section of their body:

1. Go back to the Blender file where you renamed all of your weights
   
2. Select the clothing model causing the clipping, then go from Object Mode to Sculpt Mode. Make sure you remember what parts of the body the clothing was clipping through
   
3. I’ve attached an image of 2 tools that you should use to edit your clothing. Use those tools and target where the clipping occurred. All you have to do is inflate the clothing just a little bit, or to the point where it doesn’t look uncanny. If you want to learn more about sculpting, there are a lot of tutorials on Google.
   
4. Re-export your clothing model. Overwrite the original clothing DMesh (as well as the Mesh and Skin)

Apologies if this is a little vague. Most of the time, if clipping happens for me, I just make sure it’s not visible when you move in-game since the camera is behind the character. I also use this Blender add-on called “Robust Weight Transfer” if the clipping is too harsh. You’ll have to explore that on your own though. This is a tutorial for Haydee.


If you exported to .dmesh with the clothed Haydee Skeleton, try exporting your eyes model with the Nude skeleton instead (follow the instructions in 1.2, then change the Armature of your eyes to the skeleton from Nude.skin)

Sometimes, eyes are just too big for Haydee’s eyes and can clip through the head. I suggest assigning the eyes to SK_Head if the above method doesn’t work.

Zipping your Outfit is a very short process. You simply just have to compress all the files that are not PNGs. The process is not as easy as how I just explained it, so make sure to follow along.

1. Create a New Folder inside your Haydee 3 directory. You do not have to rename it
   
2. Inside your New Folder, create a folder named “Outfits”
   
3. Place both your .outfit file and your mod folder inside your newly created “Outfits” folder.
   
4. Zip your “Outfits” folder with 7Zip. You can right click the folder, select “Show more options”, and locate the 7Zip->”Add to Outfits.zip” option to zip the file easily.
   
5. Once the file has been zipped, go into the “Outfits” Folder again.
   
6. Delete everything that is not a PNG file. This should be your .outfit file, your “materials” and “dmesh” folders, your “textures” folder (ONLY IF YOU HAVE .DDS FILES AS TEXTURES), and all of your .mesh and .skin files.
   
7. Right click the “Outfits” folder again, select “Show more options”, and locate the 7Zip->”Add to Archive”. It should pull up a new 7Zip tab with lots of info.
   
8. Change the “Compression Level” to “0 - Store”. Then click OK. Now your Zip file has uncompressed PNG textures
   
9. Rename the Zip file to any name you’d like
   
10. Test your Zip by placing it in the “Packs” folder of your Haydee 3 directory and running the game.

If you have white textures and/or missing thumbnails, then there are 2 possible outcomes:

A. File names might not be the exact same in the folder and in the .outfit file.
B. Textures and/or thumbnails were compressed and not stored.

If it works fine, then great! Congratulations! You are done with your mod! Celebrate! Joy! Cry if you want! You have a working mod in the game and you can play with it whenever you’d like. You can stop here if you just want the mod for yourself.

But what if you want to upload it to the Workshop?

You have a fully working mod with models, textures, thumbnails and the whole mod ready. How do you share it with people?

Before you start, make sure you have a preview image for your mod that displays in the workshop. It must be less than 900 x 900. I suggest creating a thumbnail with a free image editor website like pixlr.com. That way you can display an image of your character along with the title of your mod. Make sure to put this image in the new folder you created.

1. Move your Zip file back to the new folder you created.
   
2. Launch Edith, go to “Tool”, then select “Workshop Uploader”. It should open a window to fill out info for your mod.
   
3. Edit the Title and Description however you want
   
4. Click on the Package box, then navigate to your Zip file in your new folder
   
5. Click on the Preview Image box and navigate to the preview image in your new folder
   
6. Click on the Outfit and Reskin boxes (that is what your mod category is)
   
7. Finally, Click Upload and wait until it says “Success”

Your mod is now in your workshop! Congratulations! You have finished this process.
Make sure to add some more preview images of your mod in the workshop page so people know what they are downloading :)

Well, you’re done. You got through the modding process and you made an actual mod. I hope that you’re satisfied with your work, and can enjoy the game the way you want to. This may be your first mod, but just know that you aren’t obligated to make a second one or even update your mod. It’s all up to you. You’re the creator now. Don't let those beggars in the comments get to you, they can do it themselves if they wanted :)

If you have any opinions, suggestions, or corrections, please leave them in the comment section below! To any experienced modders who are reading this. I’d appreciate it if you gave me your insight as to what I could explain better or go in-depth on. The only other modding scene I’ve touched is a 2D pixel game, so I’m not the most versed on what modding for other games is like. I hope I can get your input :)

Thank you for reading. I hope this guide covers everything.

Happy Haydeeing,
-tabby