TT Isle of Man: Ride on the Edge 2

TT Isle of Man: Ride on the Edge 2

48 ratings
How to ride a bike at Snaefell Mountain course and avoid frustration.
By KG_03
I have noticed many comments of people frustrated about physics and weird crashes. I decided to make this tutorial to help some people understand the bike and game physics, which I think are the key to ride fast and not to crash. I am aware that many of the things are wrote are obvious for many players, but I hope that newcomers will find here some usefull informations.

1) Controller setting. Just like in TT1 setting up the controller is crucial. Initially the game has set up -3 for turning sensitivity and +10 dead zone. This might cause a bad feeling of the bike. Also I play with throttle set to zero sensitivity to have more progressive throttle. So I suggest to try different controller settings which suit you most.

2) Bike set up: Before you start the career your motorcycle is in stock version. You cant set up suspension, gear ratio ,brakes power, or engine brake. Once you equip the motorcycle with new parts it becomes lighter. Fully upgraded and light bike starts to bounce over the track undulations like a ball because the suspension is not automatically adjusted to lower weight. Thats why you need to spend some time and set the bike:
- gear ratio: upgrading the engine is not enough to reach higher speeds. Most of the time I set minimum gear ratio to have top speed.
- suspension: for upgraded and light bike I give softer springs, more compression damping and less rebound damping. By this I sacrifice handling speed but are least bike is not a ball on the road.
- engine brake: for Snaefell Mountain course I leave it at 100%, too much engine braking can result in too much weight being moved on the front wheel what might result a crash at some parts.
- brakes power: Its better to give less power and brake a bit earlier. Too much brake power can unload the rear and cause a wobble/crash.

3) Learn the track and bumps: its the hardest parts, I know. There are some tricky corners where in the middle are bumps. If you enter those corners in full lean it means instant crash. Places for example were I slow down before and put the bike upright: Bray Hill, Cregwillis Hill, Rhencullen, exit of Bungallow turn, Gob-ny-geay.

4) Bumps: they are crucial. I didn't see real life riders using maximum lean at TT course. In game you can. There are very few corners in the game where you can go full speed with full lean. Most of them have more or less uneven surface - If you hit a bump with too much speed, front goes up and loose contact with road - if you add higher lean to that its a crash. Also, because game doesn't simulate left/right body balance,so whenever front tyre rise up you loose control over the bike. Its better not to have a wheelie right before sharper turn.

5) Braking: Its not a race track, so don't leave the braking to last moment - at least not everywhere you can. Brake progressively, do not treat the trigger like a button. With progressive braking you can feel the moment when rear starts to move up and you can avoid carsh or going over the handlebars. Also use less brake power if you brake on decends or bumps - if you don't brake with caution there rear tyre can go up very quickly or you can fall into shimmy what very often ends with crash. In some places engine break or rear brake is safier.

6) Jumps: places like Ballaugh Bridge, Crosby have a very nice jump. RIght before the jump I move the weght forward and release the throttle to 1/3 or 1/2 - this prevent the bike from fliping over or diving.

7) Don't use full throttle everywhere. In many places slower means faster. In places like Bray Hill I dont use full throttle, I rather keep it steady to prevent front moving up on bumps. Sometimes its better to slow down a little and exit the corner faster, than enter the corner too fast and risk a crash.

8) Unlimited grip in the game: unfortunately game has unlimited grip of the tyres. So if you misjudge the braking point you still can save a crash by using full brake power in full lean. Fast downshifting can help too. If the turn has flat surface without bumps you will be fine. It saved my ass many times at Water Works.

9) Look where you want to go and avoid target fixation. Its obvious for bikers and works very well in any motorcycle game. Even if you feel you enter the corner too fast look at the road - dont look at the curb or obstacles outside the road. Force yourself and look where you wanted to go. Looking at the end of the road surface in many cases will make you go exactly there.

10) Weight balance: For hard braking I always move weight backwards to prevent rear going up and thanks to it I can use more brake power. If I go with full or high speed I move weight forward to have less whelies.

I hope that it will help some players to understand game mechanics and avoid frustration. For reference I post my superbike TT lap at the end of this tutorial. You can see where I slow down and how I align the bike. I never raced on a motorbike - I am just casual rider who loves to explore riding techniques. I was at TT once and love how the track is recreated in the game. The experience of riding at TT is outstanding - it perfectly shows that you can't go full speed everywhere. You need to learn where you should go slower and where you can allow the bike to flow over the bumps. Any comments and suggestions are welcome.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkJJtVUtYck&feature=youtu.be
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12 Comments
Rot Teufel 20 Apr @ 11:21pm 
usefull tips, expecially the less power brake for more stability.
The only con it's with less rebound damping tyres overheat pretty quickly (a big issue expecially on superbike class)
But since it's a tyre code issue, we can't do much...
team_404_pDBm 15 Nov, 2022 @ 1:51pm 
I'm a french guy, then i gonna try to translate as much as i can. First of all, in the settings, there is an option with "Break combined". I put it to "separate". I play in "manual mode". I put two actions for one button... X for [gear down and rear break] (when i put a gear down, i push a little longer, that brake in the same time...). button A: gear up, button X: gear down + rear brake.. (on a xbox controller).

The settings of the bike:
(Buy the best "parts" before: [transmissions|motors|suspension|brakes: ("S" - "A" - ...) something like that.]
team_404_pDBm 15 Nov, 2022 @ 1:51pm 
Suspension: (6 settings must look like this [0,0,untouched, untouched, full, full] (we see [28250,29000,100%,100%,113%,113%]).
Transmission: put 50% more than the default settings in the "FINAL RATIO".
Motor: "Motor break?"=130% (if possible).
Front brake: maximum (like 113% or more).

The settings in the games set like this [sensitivity | Dead zone | saturation]..

"Acceleration": +10, 0, 100
"front break": +10, 0, 0
"rear brake": +10, -, -
"turn right/left": -2, 0, 55

I'm not an expert in TT. I play just for the fun. For example, with the "Suter MMX500" (with one crash, i think), the time is: 16:35.271....

Happy TT... ;)
B. Bergamot 27 Jun, 2022 @ 12:46pm 
and an irl biker I cannot say enough how useful the "Look where you want to go" tip is, it will literally save your hide 8 times out of 10.
RYONIX 13 Jun, 2021 @ 12:16am 
anyone wanna race in tt add me as a friend. its hard to find people to race and i this game is an awesome race game.
KG_03  [author] 18 Jul, 2020 @ 10:01am 
System settings?
m4gnn out of context 18 Jul, 2020 @ 3:37am 
systen settings for me ?
KG_03  [author] 13 Apr, 2020 @ 8:48am 
I think its a problem of describstion. Because lower extension means more damping... I was rather treating it as a extension damper... so less extension damping (-) = faster it extends. Thanks for pointing this out. I will take a look at it to clarify it.
CFL 13 Apr, 2020 @ 7:56am 
Hello KG_03, I have read you comments and I have watched the linked video, thanks for this!
I hope I have understand the logic behind this.

But I still have a problem with this 2 last parameters of the game, maybe it is only because of its weird description.
It says "Sets the speed at which the suspension extends after a bump."
I would think that the lower this value, the slower the suspension extends. (because the speed is lower, accordingly to this description)

But maybe it is exactly the opposite. The lower this value, the QUICKER the suspension extends. (because the damping factor is lower)
If it is like this, all is logical...
KG_03  [author] 13 Apr, 2020 @ 4:20am 
Softer springs compress faster and extend slower. If you give to little front compression damping there is a possiblity that suspension travel will end up very quickly, also the wheel go too fast up after hitting a bump. So in that case you need to add more compression damping. In case of decompression (or extension) is similar situation, If the extension is too quick the wheel will bounce out. But because you put softer springs which decompress slower, you need to adjust extension and make it a little smaller than in case of harder springs. Im not sure if I answered your question but this video explains it much better:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_CO4j-OaiYw